Krasnoyarsk

Krasnoyarsk is a large city in the centre of Siberia, spread across both banks of the Yenisei. People come here for wild nature within the city limits: the Stolby rock pillars, ski slopes, and views of a mighty river that does not freeze even in winter.

Why come, and what is genuinely worth seeing

• The Stolby nature reserve — the main reason to come. These are syenite rock pillars standing among the taiga, and around them grew the local culture of stolbizm, free climbing without equipment. You reach them on foot along marked trails; it is several kilometres of ascent from the entrance to the famous rocks, so allow half a day to a full day. You need proper footwear, hiking boots or sturdy trainers.
• The funicular and cable cars at Bobrovy Log — a ski complex on the edge of the city, next to Stolby. In summer it works as a viewpoint: the cable car lifts you up to a panorama of taiga and river. A convenient way to see the landscape without a long climb on foot.
• The Chapel of Paraskeva Pyatnitsa — the very one depicted on the 10-ruble banknote. It stands on Karaulnaya Hill, and it is worth climbing up to it first of all for the viewing platform: the whole city, the Yenisei and the bridges laid out below.
• The Yenisei embankment and the Kommunalny Bridge — a walk along the river gives you a sense of the scale of Siberia. The river is wide and fast, the water cold and clear.
• Tatyshev Island — a large park island in the middle of the river, a favourite with locals for cycling, skating and simply walking. There is hire available in summer.

How many days to allow

Two days are enough to see the main things. A sensible plan: one day for nature (Stolby plus Bobrovy Log, which are close together), the second for the city (the chapel, the embankment, Tatyshev, the centre). If you want to climb the rocks unhurriedly and walk in the taiga, add a third day.

Getting there and getting around

• The airport is outside the city and the drive to the centre takes a noticeable amount of time. There is an airport bus and there are taxis — the taxi is faster but dearer. Check the bus timetable in advance, as the intervals are long.
• The railway station — Krasnoyarsk is on the Trans-Siberian Railway and trains arrive from all over the country. The station is close to the centre.
• Around the city — buses are the main transport, with many routes, and card payment usually works. There is no metro. The centre is compact and the key points in the historic part can genuinely be walked. For Stolby and Bobrovy Log, take a bus to the terminus and continue on foot or by cable car.

Where to stay

The best choice is the centre, around Mira Avenue. From here it is walkable to the embankment, the restaurants and the transport stops for the nature sites. Accommodation in the centre costs more but saves travel time. On a limited budget, look slightly off the main axis but with a direct bus into the centre.

When to go

• Summer (June–August) — the best time for Stolby and for walking: warm, the taiga green, the summer cable cars and hire places open. This is the main tourist season.
• Winter — Bobrovy Log turns into a ski resort, and the unfrozen Yenisei produces striking views with steam rising off the water. But the frosts are Siberian and severe, so you need warm gear.
• The shoulder seasons at Stolby can be muddy and slippery from melting snow and rain.

Food and money

Krasnoyarsk is noticeably cheaper than Moscow and St Petersburg. The coffee and restaurant scene is well developed — a decent choice for a Siberian city. What to try:

• Yenisei fish — grayling and whitefish, along with the delicacies muksun and sturgeon (the latter two are not cheap).
• Siberian pelmeni and dishes using wild-harvested foods (fern, wild garlic, berries, pine nuts).

Canteens and chain cafés in the centre help you save — a filling lunch costs little. Street food and produce at the markets are also cheap.

Safety and practical points

• The city is generally calm and ordinary urban attentiveness is enough.
• At Stolby lies the real risk: do not climb the rocks without experience or in wet weather, as falls do happen. Stick to the trails and take water — there is nowhere to buy it on the route.
• The weather is changeable and it is cooler in the taiga than in the city — take a windproof jacket even in summer.
• Allow for the time difference from Moscow (Krasnoyarsk is far to the east) when planning calls and connections.

Common mistakes

• Coming for one day and trying to cram in both Stolby and the city — it will not work, as the nature takes a whole day.
• Going to Stolby in city shoes and without water.
• Underestimating the distances: the airport and the nature sites are a noticeable drive away, so allow time.
• Limiting yourself to the viewpoint by the chapel — the reserve and the taiga give far more than a panorama.