Nafplio

Nafplio is one of those rare Greek cities where you don't need to go looking for anything: a Venetian fortress, marble squares and a labyrinth of neoclassical lanes are all within easy walking distance of one another. It makes a convenient base for excursions to Mycenae and Epidaurus and a great way to escape the Athens bustle for a couple of days.

Why go and how long to stay

Nafplio is compact — the Old Town can be walked in an hour, and almost everything worth seeing is concentrated between the harbour, Syntagma Square and the climb up to Palamidi. One full day is enough to see the city itself. But 2 days is the better plan: the second day goes on radial trips to the nearby UNESCO ancient sites — Mycenae, Tiryns, Epidaurus. If time is tight, come for at least one night: Nafplio in the evening, with the illuminated fortress and the seafront promenade, is reason enough to stay.

Getting there and getting around

From Athens — about 135 km, roughly 2–2.5 hours by road.

• KTEL bus — the simplest option without a car: services run from Athens' Kifissos terminal to Nafplio bus station. Check schedules in advance; off-season services are fewer.
• Car rental — the best choice if you plan to visit Mycenae, Tiryns and Epidaurus. Public transport to these sites exists but is inconvenient and time-consuming; a car makes all three doable in a single day.
• No transport needed within the city — everything is walkable. The only real climb is up to Palamidi.

A ferry shuttle to Bourtzi departs from the harbour; the crossing takes just a few minutes.

Palamidi Fortress — the climb

The main attraction. The famous staircase leads to the top (legend says 999 steps; the real count is fewer). Practical tips:

• Go early in the morning or close to sunset — the open slope is hot in the middle of the day with almost no shade.
• Bring water and wear shoes with a decent sole — the steps are old and uneven.
• Not up for the walk? A road for cars/taxis also leads to the top, with the fortress entrance on the other side. A good compromise: drive up, walk down.
• The bastions offer the best view over the gulf and the red-tiled rooftops of the Old Town — worth the trip for the panorama alone.

What to see in town

• Old Town — wander without a fixed route: Venetian façades, bougainvillea, staircases. This is where you understand why the city is called one of the most romantic on the Peloponnese.
• Syntagma Square — the heart of the Old Town, ringed with cafés and museums; a handy rest stop between walks.
• The Five Brothers Bastion and the seafront promenade — a pleasant evening stroll along the water.
• Archaeological Museum — compact, with finds from Mycenae and Tiryns; worth visiting before heading out to the ruins themselves to put them in context.
• Bourtzi — the small island fortress in the harbour; more of a postcard view than a substantive museum, but the boat trip is worth it.

Day trips (Day 2)

• Mycenae (~25 km) — the Lion Gate, the Treasury of Atreus, a Bronze Age legend. Sturdy footwear essential; little shade.
• Epidaurus (~30 km) — an ancient theatre with phenomenal acoustics; if you're there during the summer festival, book tickets in advance.
• Tiryns (~6 km) — Cyclopean walls, a quick visit en route. Often underrated, yet practically on the doorstep.

A logical driving route: Tiryns → Mycenae → Epidaurus, returning to Nafplio by evening.

Where to stay

Stay in the Old Town — atmosphere, everything on foot, evening life right outside your window (bear in mind noise from cafés if you're a light sleeper). Those looking for quiet and parking will find the neighbourhoods slightly above and away from the centre more practical for a car, but you'll need to walk down steps to reach anything.

Food and money

Nafplio is a resort and tourist town, so tavernas around Syntagma Square and along the waterfront are pricier than average for Greece. The fix is simple: walk a couple of streets into the Old Town where locals eat. Don't miss the local ice cream and desserts — the city has a genuine reputation for them. Seafood is fresh, but check the price per kilogram before ordering.

When to go and what to watch out for

• Spring and autumn — ideal: warm without the summer heat on the fortress slopes.
• Summer — hot and crowded, but the Epidaurus theatre is in operation.
• The city is safe, with very little crime; the main practical hazards are the sun and slippery marble paving after rain.
• A common mistake is coming for just one day and trying to squeeze in the city and all three ancient sites. It won't work comfortably — split it across two days.