Uglich

Uglich is a compact little town on the Volga, most often reached from the deck of a cruise boat, though it fully deserves an independent visit of a day or two. On a small patch of ground by the water it brings together an ancient kremlin, the story of the mysterious death of Tsarevich Dmitry, and a quiet provincial embankment that is pleasant to wander without hurrying.

Why come, and what to see

The main draw is the Uglich Kremlin. A kremlin is the fortified citadel of an old Russian town, though here the fortress walls have not survived: what remains is a green headland above the Volga with several buildings on it. The key points:

• The Church of St Dmitry on the Blood — an ornate red church on the spot where in 1591 the youngest son of Ivan the Terrible died in unclear circumstances. Historians date the road to the Time of Troubles, Russia's period of dynastic crisis and civil war, from that death. Inside is a display about the tragedy.
• The Saviour Transfiguration Cathedral with its bell tower — you can climb up and look over the surroundings from above.
• The chambers of the appanage princes of Uglich — one of the few surviving stone civic buildings of the 15th century in Russia, a rarity in itself.

Beyond the kremlin it is worth walking to the Resurrection and Epiphany monasteries and strolling the streets of merchant mansions. Uglich is the home of a well-known cheese brand and of the "Chaika" watch factory, and there are themed private museums in town (bicycles, the prison, vodka, town life). They are an acquired taste and often frankly homemade — go selectively, for the atmosphere rather than the depth.

How many days. The core of the town takes a few hours. For a calm format with the museums and a walk along the embankment, one full day. An overnight stay makes sense if you are making Uglich part of a route around the Golden Ring — the classic circuit of medieval towns north-east of Moscow — or along the Volga.

Getting there

Uglich has essentially no airport and no direct train in the usual sense — you arrive by road:

• Bus — the most practical option. Regular services from Moscow (a few hours) and connections with Yaroslavl, Rostov and Rybinsk. The bus station is not far from the centre.
• Car — convenient if you are driving the Myshkin – Uglich – Rostov – Yaroslavl loop. The roads are mediocre in places, so allow spare time.
• Cruise boat — Volga cruises call here, with the landing right by the kremlin. But cruise passengers get a few hours in town between excursions; the independent traveller sees more.

Do not expect a dedicated train to Uglich with a convenient timetable — the bus is simpler.

Getting around

Everything important is on foot. The kremlin, the embankment, the monasteries and the merchant centre all lie within walking distance of each other; the town really is small. Public transport is practically unnecessary for a visitor. The Volga embankment is the best place for an unhurried walk, especially towards evening.

Where to stay

Best is the centre, near the kremlin and the embankment. Then everything is at hand and you do not depend on transport. There are not many options: a couple of hotels, guesthouses and small hotels, some in old merchant buildings. During the river navigation season and on the May and summer weekends accommodation is taken early — book well ahead. Prices are moderate by Russian standards, below those of the big tourist centres.

When to go

• Summer and early autumn — the boats are running, it is warm, the kremlin is green and all the museums are open. But this is also the peak of cruise groups: the kremlin grounds can be crowded during the day when the boats dock. The trick is to walk the kremlin early in the morning or towards evening, once the cruise passengers have sailed.
• Winter — quiet, snowy and atmospheric, but with short daylight and cold.
• The shoulder seasons — fewer people, but capricious weather, and some of the private museums may keep reduced hours.

Food and money

Uglich is an inexpensive town. Cafés and taverns are concentrated in the centre, and the cooking is simple Russian: fish soup, Volga fish dishes, home preserves, baking. A subject in itself is the local cheese: it is sold in the shops, and is worth taking both as a gift and for a snack. The average bill in a café is modest, and cash is useful in the small museums and shops, where a card terminal is not always available.

Practicalities: saving money and what to avoid

• Do not buy a combined ticket to all the museums at once — many of the private displays are tiny. Choose 2–3 that genuinely interest you.
• Work around the cruise timings. The main flow of visitors comes during the day while the boats are docked. Morning and evening the town is yours.
• Do not count on a lively evening scene — Uglich falls quiet by night. This is a quiet town for walking, not for going out.
• Combine it with Myshkin — a neighbouring small town on the Volga; together they make an excellent two-day route.
• Check the bus timetable in advance, including the return: there are not many services and it is easy to be stuck for an extra day.

Uglich is good precisely for its slowness: if you do not chase tick-boxes but spend a day by the water, look into the kremlin at sunset and try the local cheese, the town opens up far better than it does during a two-hour boat call.