The former Stalingrad — Mamayev Kurgan with The Motherland Calls, the Battle of Stalingrad panorama and the Volga.
Volgograd is first of all about the memory of the Battle of Stalingrad (17 July 1942 to 2 February 1943) and about the Volga, which has drawn the city out for more than 60 kilometres along the bank. The city was called Tsaritsyn until 1925 and Stalingrad until 1961, and people come here not for the comfort of an old centre but for specific places where the scale of the war becomes clear — and two days are more than enough for that.
If time remains, you can travel down to the Volga–Don Canal with its locks and monuments, in the south of the city.
From the airport to the centre. The airport is outside the city, to the north. Public transport (buses and shared minibuses) and taxis run into the centre; a taxi is the simplest option with luggage. There is also a railway station right in the centre — the train from Moscow is convenient, taking roughly 18 to 20 hours.
Within the city. Volgograd's distinctive feature is the high-speed tram, the "metrotram": part of the line runs underground like a metro, and it is a genuinely fast way to cross the elongated centre. Use it as your main transport along the city's axis. Otherwise there are buses, trolleybuses and shared minibuses. Allow for the geometry of the city: it is long and narrow, journeys between distant districts take a long time, so group your destinations by location.
Mamayev Kurgan and the panorama museum are connected to the centre by public transport and lie close to the main axis — there is no need to hire a car for two days.
Best are the central districts around the Alley of Heroes, the embankment and the railway station. From there it is walkable to the panorama museum and convenient to reach Mamayev Kurgan by tram. There is no point staying on the far outskirts: you will lose time travelling the length of the city.
Two days are enough. A sensible split:
Season. The best time is late spring and early autumn. Summer in Volgograd is genuinely hot, with a steppe climate: touring the exposed Mamayev Kurgan in the midday heat is hard going, so bring water and a hat. Winter is cold and windy off the river. Particular dates are 2 February (the anniversary of the end of the Battle of Stalingrad) and 9 May, Victory Day: both are notable occasions, but crowded.
Volgograd feels inexpensive compared with Moscow and St Petersburg: cafés, canteens and lunches cost noticeably less. Do not expect a distinctive local cuisine — this is ordinary southern Russian and general Russian food, plus the Volga fish traditions of the region. Look for places a step away from the ceremonial Alley of Heroes rather than on it, where the prices are fairer.
Volgograd is not about relaxed tourism — it is about strong, specific impressions. Come for those, subordinate your logistics to the city's elongated geometry, and two days will be enough to take away the essentials.