Safety in Burundi

The general picture: The country calls for a high level of alertness. Things are stable but political risk has not gone away. Avoid crowds and demonstrations of any kind. Do not discuss domestic politics or the conflicts of the past with strangers, and read your own government's travel advisory before you commit.

After dark: Walking anywhere after nightfall is strongly discouraged, even in the centre of the capital. For any evening movement, have your hotel call a taxi. Street lighting is thin, which suits robbers perfectly.

Places to avoid: Steer clear of the old Central Market site in Bujumbura, where armed robbery is a genuine risk. The national parks on the border with the DRC, Kibira among them, are currently unsafe because of armed group activity.

Documents: Carry a copy of your passport and visa and leave the originals in the hotel safe. There are many roadside checkpoints where papers get inspected. Be polite, never argue with soldiers, and never point a camera at them.

Petty theft: Watch your pockets and bags in crowds and markets. Pickpockets here work professionally, especially in the capital. Keep large sums of cash and expensive gadgets out of sight and stay unremarkable.

Health: Medical care is very limited. For anything serious, go to the private Kira hospital in Bujumbura. Tap water is unsafe, so drink bottled water and check the seal is intact when you buy it.

Burundi is among the world's poorest and least visited countries. Tourists are almost absent and deception as an industry has not developed.

Bujumbura. Pickpockets at markets and theft from cars. Nobody walks at night.

Taxis and moto-taxis. Motorcycles are the main transport, without helmets. Agree in advance.

Lake Tanganyika. The beaches near Bujumbura are the main leisure spot. Beautiful, but crocodiles and hippos in the lake are real and the water carries schistosomiasis.

Currency exchange. The official and parallel Burundian franc rates have differed substantially. Change at banks; street exchange is illegal.

Cash. Cards barely work and ATMs are few. Bring dollars or euros.

The political situation. The country has been through a period of serious internal instability. Restrictions apply to political activity and independent organisations.

Photography. Military installations, police, government buildings, the presidential palace, the airport and bridges are categorically off limits. Foreigners have been detained over photographs.

Drones. Prohibited.

Permits. Documents may be required to travel around the country, and checkpoints check them.

The DRC border. Western districts near the frontier are affected by armed group activity. Check conditions.

Drugs. The law is strict.

Same-sex relations are criminalised.

Curfew. Imposed during certain periods.

Roads. Mountainous and in poor condition; nobody drives at night.

Yellow fever is compulsory. A certificate is required on entry.

Malaria. Very high risk year-round. Prophylaxis is unconditionally essential.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, meningococcus, rabies, polio and cholera.

Cholera. Outbreaks occur regularly.

Schistosomiasis. Lake Tanganyika is infected. Do not swim, despite locals doing so.

Crocodiles and hippos. Real in Tanganyika and the rivers. Do not approach the water.

Water. Bottled only.

Healthcare is extremely weak. Among the world's worst systems. Bujumbura has basic clinics. Anything serious means evacuation to Nairobi or Kigali. Insurance with air evacuation is essential.

Altitude. The country sits on a plateau at 1,500 to 2,000 metres, with a milder climate than expected.

Emergency numbers: 117 police.

Burundi sits at the very bottom of the Corruption Perceptions Index and institutions are weak.

Checkpoints. Numerous, with document checks and possible requests for "help".

Photography and the police. The main problem for a foreigner.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken, but there will be no investigation. The languages are French and Kirundi.

Bujumbura at night. Travel by car.

Political periods. During tension, stay in your accommodation and follow the news.

Consular assistance. Diplomatic presence is limited.

What actually matters. Burundi's main risks are malaria, the absence of healthcare, photography and the political situation. The country is beautiful, but a trip requires organisation and an understanding of the context.

Emergency number is 117.