Safety in Nigeria

General rules: Nigeria demands attention to detail and an understanding of local security realities. Do not wave an expensive phone around in the street and leave jewellery at home so you are not marking yourself out in a crowd.

Moving around: Rule out walking after dark entirely, even in the better districts. For any night-time movement use only established taxi services booked through an app to your door.

No-go areas: Cut the north-eastern states and the Niger Delta interior out of your itinerary altogether, because of kidnapping and terrorism risk. The borders with Cameroon and Niger are also considered highly unstable for a lone traveller, and you should read your own government's travel advisory before you commit.

Health: Malaria is a genuine threat, so use repellent and sleep under a net. At the first sign of fever or unexplained weakness, get to a clinic for a rapid test.

Water: Never drink tap water and do not even brush your teeth with it in cheap hotels. Buy only bottled water from known brands and check the seal on the cap before you drink.

Photography: Be very careful with a camera and always ask permission before photographing people. Shooting government buildings, military installations and bridges is strictly forbidden and can lead to arrest.

Nigeria is Africa's largest economy and a country with very high crime in several regions. Few tourists come; most foreigners are here for work.

Lagos. Robberies including armed ones, bag snatching in traffic, and theft from cars at lights. Nobody walks at night anywhere. Movement is by car with a trusted driver only.

Fraud is a national brand. "Nigerian letters", romance schemes, and "419" after the criminal code section. For a visitor this more often appears as offers of business, investment, "help with a shipment" and requests for transfers. Any such offer is a refusal.

Taxis. Apps only (Bolt, Uber) or a driver from your hotel. Street cars and keke should not be taken.

Lagos airport. A historic reputation: intrusive "helpers", demands for payment over formalities, and greeters holding someone else's sign. Arrange a transfer in advance through your hotel.

Currency exchange. The naira's official and parallel rates have differed several-fold. Change only through your hotel or a bank.

The geography of risk. The north-east (Borno, Yobe, Adamawa) is an area of armed group activity. The north-west and Middle Belt see mass kidnapping for ransom, including on highways. The Niger Delta sees kidnapping of oil workers and piracy in the Gulf of Guinea. Lagos and Abuja have urban crime. There are essentially no regions safe in the European sense.

Kidnapping. A systemic problem rather than a rare incident. Foreigners are a priority target. International companies move staff under security protocols.

Photography. Military installations, police, airports, government buildings and oil infrastructure are categorically off limits.

Same-sex relations are criminalised, and in the northern Sharia states penalties are extremely severe.

Sharia in the north. Twelve northern states apply Sharia criminal law. Alcohol is prohibited there and the dress code is strict.

Drugs. The law is severe and airports are screened thoroughly.

Drones. Permission is required; in practice they are prohibited.

Roads. Do not drive between cities at night under any circumstances.

Yellow fever is compulsory. A certificate is required on entry and checked strictly.

Malaria. Very high risk nationwide year-round. Nigeria accounts for the world's largest number of malaria cases and deaths. Prophylaxis is unconditionally essential.

Lassa fever. Endemic to Nigeria, with outbreaks every year, mainly in the dry season. Transmitted through rodent excreta. Do not eat food stored uncovered and avoid contact with rodents.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, meningococcus, rabies, polio and cholera.

Water. Bottled only, from known brands.

Healthcare. Lagos and Abuja have acceptable private clinics, but standards overall are low. Anything serious means evacuation to South Africa or Europe. Insurance with air evacuation is essential.

Electricity. Interruptions are constant and generators are everywhere.

Emergency number is 112, and 767 in Lagos.

Nigeria sits in the lower part of the Corruption Perceptions Index, and extortion by people in uniform is a daily reality.

Checkpoints. Numerous on every road. Demands to "give something" are ordinary. Stay calm, keep documents in order, and keep small notes separate from your wallet.

Police. Slow to respond, with no investigations into minor crime. Attitudes to foreigners vary widely.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates issued, but the process is long and a fee is sometimes requested.

Movement. The standard for foreigners working in Nigeria: a driver, a known route, daylight hours, and no stops in unfamiliar places. This is working practice, not paranoia.

Consular assistance. Embassies function, but their capacity to help outside the major cities is limited.

What actually matters. Nigeria is not a tourist country in the ordinary sense. A trip here makes sense with a host organisation taking on logistics and security. Independent travel around the country is not recommended.