Palestinian Territories

Ramallah

The de facto capital and a determinedly secular city, worth a trip for a look at the contemporary Middle East rather than the biblical one. You will find the best coffee houses here, a lot of street art and Al-Manara Square in the middle of it all. It also works as a base for day trips into the surrounding villages on the yellow shared minibuses.

Bethlehem

Where to go for the Church of the Nativity and the Milk Grotto. The town is saturated in biblical history and then surprises you with Banksy's work on the separation wall. In the evening it is a pleasure to walk the old quarters past the olive-wood workshops.

Jericho

An ancient town in the rift below sea level, always warmer than the hills. People come to climb to the Monastery of the Temptation and to see the mosaics of Hisham's Palace. It is a genuinely green oasis in the middle of the Judean desert.

Nablus

You can do the Casbah in a day here and eat the legendary knafeh while you are at it. The city is known for its traditional soap factories and an atmosphere that feels much older than Ramallah's. Fewer tourists, more ordinary Palestinian life.

Hebron

A city divided into sectors, visited above all for the Cave of the Patriarchs. Walking its markets under the protective mesh leaves a strong impression of the reality of the region. It has the tensest history here, and the most necessary to understand.

Jenin

A northern city, interesting for its energy and its closeness to the ancient church at Burqin. You get the rhythm of daily life without any crowd of pilgrims. The hills around it are good walking country, all olive groves and terraces.

Bethlehem's holy sites: the Church of the Nativity is what to see first, despite the queue down into the grotto. Arrive at opening and you may get twenty minutes of it nearly to yourself.
Banksy's work: walking the length of the wall takes you past the famous pieces and to the hotel with the worst view in the world. It is a serious political statement rather than a photo stop.
Mar Saba: a desert monastery dramatically cut into the cliff above a gorge. Only men are allowed inside, but the view from outside justifies the taxi fare on its own.
The Mount of Temptation: in Jericho, climb to the monastery clinging to the slope. There is a cable car, or you can walk up for the views over the valley and the Dead Sea beyond.
Ancient mosaics: Hisham's Palace is built around an enormous mosaic floor known as the Tree of Life. It is a rare surviving example of early Islamic architecture at this scale.
Mount Gerizim: worth a trip for the archaeological park at the summit. The panorama takes in Nablus and the green hills that surround it.
Taybeh brewery: a visit to this village gets you into the only craft brewery in the region. They run tastings and explain how they keep production going under the conditions they work in.

Currency: the Israeli shekel is used everywhere, though hotels frequently quote in dollars. The rate moves, so check it before you change anything.
Cash: carry a reserve of cash, since much of the West Bank runs on notes rather than cards. US dollars and euros both change easily at the sarrafa exchange shops, with dollars generally getting the better rate.
Cards and ATMs: Visa and Mastercard work in Ramallah hotels, larger restaurants and supermarkets, and there are ATMs in the main towns, but small shops, minibuses and village stalls are cash only. Amex is essentially not accepted anywhere.
Exchange: the best rates are in the centres of Ramallah and Bethlehem. Count what you are handed before you step away from the window, every time.
Tipping: around 10% in cafés where no service charge appears on the bill. Taxi fares are simply rounded up.

Item	Price (USD)
Street falafel	4.00
Shared minibus ride	3.00
Dinner in a café	18.00
Night in a guesthouse	35.00
Kilo of apples	2.00
1.5L bottled water	1.50
Cup of coffee	3.00
Taxi across town	6.00
Knafeh in Nablus	2.50
Entry to Hisham's Palace	3.00
Cable car in Jericho	16.00
Local beer	5.00
Bar of olive oil soap	4.00
Litre of petrol	1.60
Fridge magnet	3.00

Getting in: every land and air border is controlled by Israel, so you arrive through Ben Gurion airport or overland from Jordan. Most Western passports now need an ETA-IL travel authorisation applied for online at least 72 hours before departure; check your own passport's rules well ahead. Coming across the Allenby Bridge from Jordan involves a Jordanian permit and an exit fee.
Yellow shared taxis: the intercity "service" minibuses leave the central stations when they fill up and cost very little. They are the way locals move and the simplest way for you to do the same.
Bus from Jerusalem: the easiest route to Bethlehem is the number 231 from Damascus Gate, paid in cash shekels on board. It takes about 45 minutes and drops you close to Manger Square.
City taxis: the cars are unmistakably yellow. Agree the fare before you get in rather than after you arrive.
Car hire: rent in East Jerusalem, because standard Israeli rental insurance frequently does not cover travel beyond the separation wall. Palestinian-plated cars cannot enter Israel, which matters when planning a route by taxi.
Checkpoints: buses returning towards Jerusalem are checked at the crossings. Keep your passport and paper entry slip somewhere you can reach without unpacking.
Driving: expect chaotic traffic and extremely narrow, steep lanes in the older parts of the towns, where a small car is a genuine advantage.

Apartments: booking a flat through the international platforms is a good way to stay in an ordinary residential neighbourhood rather than a tourist bubble.
Family guesthouses: Bethlehem and Nablus have many houses where the owners take guests properly, offering rooms with real character and a great deal of conversation.
Monastery guest houses: several monasteries run pilgrim accommodation. It is modest, quiet and comes with a traditional home-cooked breakfast.
The Walled Off Hotel: Banksy's hotel in Bethlehem is an artwork in its own right. Even if you sleep elsewhere, go in for the museum and the café.
Heating and cooling: stone houses get genuinely cold in winter, so confirm there is a heater, and check for air conditioning if you are coming in summer.
Location: stay near the central squares so that shops and the minibus stands are within walking distance, which saves both money and negotiation.
Booking ahead: around the religious festivals, Bethlehem sells out many months in advance. Plan those trips far earlier than feels necessary.

Musakhan: the national dish, roast chicken with onions and sumac served on flatbread, eaten with your hands by tearing off pieces of the warm bread underneath.
Maqluba: rice with meat and vegetables, cooked in one pot and then flipped upside down onto a platter at the table, which is half the pleasure of it.
Falafel and hummus: fresh falafel with hummus and pita is the cheapest and best way to deal with hunger in the middle of a long walk.
Knafeh: for the best in the world, made with stretchy cheese under crisp pastry, go to Nablus, where it is baked in trays a metre across. It is served scaldingly hot, so wait a minute before the first bite.
Drinks: Ramallah has wine from local vineyards and excellent craft beer brewed in the Christian village of Taybeh, which is unusual enough in this region to be worth seeking out.
Coffee and tea: the coffee is very strong and spiced with cardamom, and tea is often brewed with fresh sage or mountain mint.
Sweets: the markets are piled with dates, baklava and halva, and most traders will hand you a piece to try before you buy anything.

The political situation: conditions in the region change quickly. Check recent news before travelling, avoid demonstrations entirely, and read your own government's travel advisory before committing to a route.
At checkpoints: never photograph military installations, soldiers or the crossings themselves. It can lead to detention and confiscation of your equipment.
Water: tap water is not recommended for drinking. Buy bottled, particularly in the summer months when you will be getting through several litres a day.
Dress and manner: modest clothing keeps unwanted attention away. In Hebron, shoulders and knees should be covered completely.
Belongings: crime against tourists is low. Ordinary precautions against pickpockets in busy markets are all that is needed.
Settlements: in the West Bank settlements, avoid revealing clothing and do not drive through on the Sabbath.
At night: limit travel between towns after dark, since the roads are poorly lit and closures can appear without warning.

Hospitality: people here are extraordinarily welcoming and may well invite you for coffee. If you have to decline, do it warmly and with a smile.
Ramadan: during the holy month everything slows until sunset. Eating, drinking or smoking in public before dark is considered inconsiderate.
Table manners: food is passed and taken from shared dishes with the right hand only. The left is traditionally not used for this.
Mosques: take off your shoes before entering, and women should cover their hair with a scarf and wear a long skirt.
Conversation: avoid opening political debates with strangers. Curiosity about history, crafts and family goes down far better and gets you further.
Photography: always ask before photographing a person, and be especially careful about women and older people.
Family: society here is conservative, family ties are held in high regard, and respect towards elders is expected and noticed.

Operators: the main networks are Jawwal and Ooredoo. 3G is reliable, while 4G is not available everywhere because of technical restrictions on the Palestinian networks.
Which SIM: many visitors find an Israeli SIM more practical, since it holds a signal better on the roads and gives faster data in the towns.
eSIM: you will need internet access before you reach the border to complete the entry authorisation, so install a suitable eSIM plan on your phone before you fly.
Wifi: almost every café in Ramallah and hotel in Bethlehem has it, and speeds are fine for calls and downloading maps.
WhatsApp: essentially all communication with guides and hosts happens through it. It is the default way to arrange anything in the region.
Dialling codes: the international code is +970, though Israeli +972 numbers are also in widespread use and work throughout the West Bank.
Language: English is widely spoken by younger people in the tourist centres and by anyone in the trade, and signage in Bethlehem is often trilingual. Away from those places, a few words of Arabic and an offline translator go a long way.

English	Arabic	Pronunciation
Peace be upon you	السلام عليكم	as-sa-LAA-mu a-LAY-kum
Hello	مرحبا	MAR-ha-ba
Thank you	شكرا	SHUK-ran
Please	من فضلك	min FAD-lak
Yes	نعم	NA-am
No	لا	laa
How are you?	كيف حالك؟	keyf HAA-lak
All good (slang)	تمام	ta-MAAM
How much is it?	قديش؟	ad-DEESH
Expensive	غالي	GHAA-li
Help me	ساعدني	SAA-id-ni
Where is the toilet?	وين الحمام؟	wayn el-ham-MAAM
Water	مي	may
The bill, please	الفاتورة لو سمحت	el-faa-TOO-ra law sa-MAHT
Delicious! (slang)	زاكي	ZAA-ki
Enough, that'll do (slang)	خلاص	kha-LAAS
Excuse me	عفوا	AF-wan
Goodbye	مع السلامة	ma-a sa-LAA-ma
God willing	إن شاء الله	in-shaa-AL-lah
Thank God	الحمد لله	al-HAM-du-lil-lah
I don't understand	مش فاهم	mish FAA-hem
Coffee	قهوة	AH-we

Offline maps: download detailed maps before you go, because GPS regularly loses itself in the narrow lanes of the old towns.
Sun: even in spring the sun is fierce. Bring a hat, light long-sleeved clothing and good sunscreen, and expect to drink far more water than at home.
Medicines: pharmacies in the larger towns stay open late, but bring anything specific with you in its original packaging along with the prescription.
Power: sockets are mostly European two-pin, with occasional British three-pin fittings. A universal adapter is worth the space in the bag.
Shopping: the best things to take home are mother-of-pearl work, Hebron ceramics and natural olive oil soap bought at the factory in Nablus.
Opening hours: Friday is the day off, and many shops and offices close for the long midday prayers. Christian sites in Bethlehem keep Sunday hours instead.
Insurance: take out a policy with solid cover that explicitly permits treatment in the Palestinian territories, since many standard policies exclude them.