Safety in Sierra Leone

Malaria: it is a genuine and constant risk, so antimalarial tablets and repellent matter more than anything else you pack. Use the mosquito net and cover up after sunset.

Water and hygiene: drink only bottled or properly filtered water and skip ice in drinks. Even in good restaurants, be wary of raw vegetables and fruit that may have been rinsed under a tap.

Crime: the country is among the calmer ones in the region, but petty theft happens in markets. Keep jewellery and expensive electronics out of sight, and take taxis after dark rather than walking.

Roads: chaotic driving and unlit highways make night journeys between towns seriously dangerous. Plan every leg for daylight, when drivers can actually see the potholes and the oncoming traffic.

Checkpoints: police posts on the highways check documents and vaccination certificates. Stay relaxed, be polite with the officers and keep your passport or a good copy within reach.

The ocean: currents and tides are treacherous even on popular beaches such as Lumley. Watch what locals are doing before you go in, or ask the staff at a beach cafe whether it is safe today.

Advisories: conditions vary by region and season, so read your own government's travel advisory while you are planning.

Sierra Leone has recovered from civil war and the Ebola epidemic. Street crime is moderate and tourists are few.

Freetown. Pickpockets at markets and in the centre, and theft from cars. Nobody walks at night.

The road from the airport. A distinctive feature: Lungi airport lies across the estuary from Freetown. The options are ferry, speedboat or helicopter. Private operators offer boats without life jackets and after dark, and incidents have occurred. Use the official boat service and book in advance.

Taxis and poda-podas. Shared taxis and minibuses are the local transport. A foreigner is better off taking the whole car.

Diamonds. Sierra Leone produces diamonds and offers to sell occur. These are either fakes or a criminal offence: export without a Kimberley Process certificate is prohibited.

"Guides" on the beaches. The Freetown peninsula with River Number Two and Tokeh beaches is beautiful, and services are offered there. Agree in advance.

Diamonds. Export without an official certificate is a criminal offence in Sierra Leone and in the country of arrival.

Photography. Military installations, police, the airport, government buildings and the presidential palace are categorically off limits. This is taken seriously.

Drones. Permission is required.

Drugs. The law is strict.

Same-sex relations are formally criminalised for men.

Wildlife. The Tacugama chimpanzee sanctuary and Tiwai Island have strict visiting rules. Exporting animal parts is prohibited.

Roads. Nobody drives between towns at night: no lighting, poor road surfaces, and washouts in the rainy season.

Cash. Cards barely work and ATMs are few. Bring dollars or euros in cash.

Yellow fever is compulsory. A certificate is required on entry.

Malaria. Very high risk year-round. Prophylaxis is unconditionally essential.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, meningococcus, rabies, polio and cholera.

Lassa fever. Endemic, with cases recorded. Transmitted through rodent excreta: do not leave food uncovered and avoid contact with rodents.

Ebola. The country went through history's largest epidemic in 2014–2016. There are no outbreaks now, but the health system remembers.

Water. Bottled only.

The sea. The peninsula beaches are beautiful, but currents are strong and there are no lifeguards.

Healthcare is very weak. Among the world's worst systems for doctor availability. Anything serious means evacuation to Europe or Ghana. Insurance with air evacuation is essential.

Emergency numbers: 019 for police, and 999.

Sierra Leone ranks low on the Corruption Perceptions Index, but police are generally friendly with tourists.

Checkpoints. These occur on highways, with requests for "help" possible.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates issued. English is official, so communication is simple.

Freetown at night. Travel by car.

Attitude to visitors. Tourists are very few and interest is sincere and warm. Sierra Leoneans are known for their openness.

What actually matters. The main risks here are malaria, the airport crossing, and the complete absence of healthcare outside the capital. Crime is far from first on the list of dangers.

Emergency number is 999.