Durban

Durban (eThekwini in Zulu) is the largest port and resort city on South Africa's east coast, capital of KwaZulu-Natal province and the country's main maritime gateway. Three cultures meet here — Zulu, Indian and colonial British — and the warm Indian Ocean makes the city a year-round place for holidays, surfing and beach life.

The city and its character

Durban is the country's third largest city: around 600,000 people within the historic boundaries and some 3.5 million across the eThekwini metropolitan area. Its climate is subtropical: in summer (December to February) the air warms to about 28°C with high humidity, in winter (June to August) it holds around 23°C, and the ocean stays comfortable almost all year. The city grew around one of the busiest harbours in Africa, which shaped its many-sided character — commercial, industrial and at the same time relaxed and resort-like.

A distinctive feature of Durban is the largest Indian community outside India itself. The descendants of indentured labourers brought in the 19th century to the sugar plantations of Natal formed a subculture of their own here: temples, mosques, spice markets and a cuisine that has become the city's calling card.

The Golden Mile and the coast

The Golden Mile is a six-kilometre promenade along a run of city beaches, the heart of resort life. Renewed for the 2010 football World Cup, it brings together cycle paths, cafés, skate parks and board hire. The beaches — North Beach, South Beach, uShaka Beach — are popular with surfers and protected by shark nets maintained by the Natal Sharks Board.

Durban has a fair claim to being the cradle of South African surfing: steady waves, warm water and developed infrastructure make it a starting point for beginners and a competition venue for professionals. At the southern end of the promenade stands uShaka Marine World, one of the largest aquariums in Africa, with dolphin pools, shark tunnels and a water park.

Sights and districts

• Moses Mabhida Stadium — the 2010 World Cup arena with its distinctive arch. The SkyCar cable car and the Adventure Walk of several hundred steps lead to the top, where a panorama of the city and the ocean opens up, and thrill-seekers take the Big Rush swing jump.
• Victoria Street Market — a vivid Indian market with rows of spices, textiles, incense and ayurvedic goods, heir to the historic bazaar.
• The Golden Mile and Suncoast — the resort zone, with a casino, restaurants and beach access.
• The Durban Botanic Gardens — the oldest in the country, with a rich collection of orchids, palms and cycads.
• The Sri Sri Radha Radhanath Temple and the Juma Masjid — the largest religious monuments of the Indian and Muslim communities.
• The historic buildings around City Hall, in neoclassical style, recall the British past.

Around Durban

• The Valley of a Thousand Hills, 30-45 minutes away — scenic Zulu country with craft workshops, viewpoints and cultural villages.
• Hluhluwe-iMfolozi — the oldest game reserve in Africa, a few hours to the north, known for its success with rhinos; the Big Five are found here.
• The coast to the south and north (the South Coast and the Dolphin Coast) — a string of quiet resort villages and reefs for diving.

Food

Durban's cooking fuses Indian and African traditions. The great local speciality is bunny chow: half a loaf of bread, hollowed out and filled with a hot curry of mutton, chicken or beans. Samosas and roti are popular, along with Zulu dishes — pap, the maize porridge, with chakalaka vegetable relish. Durban curry is known for its depth of heat and abundance of spice. To drink, try South African wines, including the local pinotage grape.

Practical information

King Shaka International Airport (DUR) lies about 35 km north of the centre, with domestic and international flights. Around the city, taxis and ride-hailing apps are easiest, and a bus route runs along the coast. Three days is enough: the first for the Golden Mile, the beaches and the aquarium, the second for the stadium, the Indian quarter and the market, the third for a trip to the Valley of a Thousand Hills or out into the countryside.

When swimming, stay between the lifeguards' flags, guard against the strong sun, and — as in any large South African city — take sensible care of your belongings, particularly after dark outside the tourist areas.