Incheon

Incheon is not only Korea's main airport but also a port city next door to Seoul, easy to drop into for a day on the way to or from the capital. It has Korea's Chinatown, a waterfront with a Ferris wheel on Wolmido island, and a genuinely working metro connecting it all to Seoul.

Is it worth going, and for how long

Incheon is the ideal way to use up a spare day before a flight or straight after landing: rather than dragging your suitcases into Seoul, you can see something nearby. One day is more than enough. Travelling out from Seoul specifically for Incheon is only worth it if the port, the sea and an unhurried pace interest you — there are no architectural must-sees on the capital's level here.

The main cluster of sights is compact: Chinatown, the neighbouring Songwol-dong quarter with its painted walls (the Fairy Tale Village) and Wolmido island — all in the western, older part of the city by the sea, next to Incheon station (the terminus of metro line 1).

Getting there and getting around

• From Incheon Airport. The airport stands on a separate island, and the AREX railway and buses run to the old town and the centre. Note that "Incheon" in the airport's name does not mean it is a couple of steps from Chinatown — you still have to travel.
• From Seoul. The simplest way is metro line 1 (dark blue) to the Incheon terminus. The journey is not fast (about an hour to an hour and a half from central Seoul), but it involves no changes and is cheap. From Incheon station it is a few minutes' walk to Chinatown.
• Locally. The old centre and Wolmido can be covered on foot, or with a short bus or taxi ride to the waterfront. The rechargeable T-money transport card works on both the metro and the buses — buy one at any convenience store, as it is the standard across the country.

What to see

• Chinatown. Korea's only official Chinatown, which grew up around the old port. Paifang gates, staircases, restaurants. This is where the dish jajangmyeon (noodles in black bean sauce) originated, and this is the place to try it at source.
• Songwol-dong Fairy Tale Village. The neighbouring lanes, painted with fairy tales and cartoons. Brief, photogenic and free — logical to combine with Chinatown, as they are next to each other.
• Wolmido island. Joined to the mainland, it is essentially a waterfront promenade with a Ferris wheel, fairground rides, cafés and a view of the port. In the evening there is illumination and sea air. Pleasure boats and ferries also leave from here.
• The open port and the old quarters. The district of the former Japanese and Western concessions, with buildings from the early 20th century and port museums — a pleasant walk between Chinatown and the sea.
• The islands. If you have time and good weather, ferries run from Wolmido and the port terminals to the nearer islands. That is a half-day or full-day undertaking in itself, and cannot be squeezed into a single busy day that also includes the airport.

Food and prices

Incheon feels cheaper and simpler than Seoul, especially for food. What to look for:

• Jajangmyeon and Chinese-Korean cooking in Chinatown — filling and inexpensive.
• Seafood by the port and at the markets — but prices fluctuate, so check before ordering.
• Standard Korean street food and chains — everywhere.

As a general guide: a snack at a cheap eatery is very affordable, and a full lunch is moderate. Cash is not essential, as cards are accepted almost everywhere, but a little small change is useful at the market and the kiosks.

Where to stay

The logic depends on your purpose:

• An early or late flight — the hotels by the airport (including capsule hotels and rest areas in the terminal itself). Convenient, but it is a bedroom rather than a city.
• If you want atmosphere — the old port and Chinatown district: the sights are walkable and the sea is there in the evening.
• Transit with Seoul in mind — stay nearer Incheon station or along line 1, so you can travel into the capital in the morning without changes.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable: mild, clear and pleasant for walking the waterfront. Summer is hot and humid with occasional rain; winter is windy and cold — and on exposed, seaward Wolmido that is felt more than in the city.

Practicalities and common mistakes

• Do not confuse the airport with the city — allow an hour to an hour and a half for the journey between them.
• Do not plan Incheon and a full day in Seoul together: the travel will eat the time, so choose one.
• Get a T-money card straight away — it saves trouble on buses and the metro.
• Wolmido is more interesting towards evening (the lighting, sunset over the port), and Chinatown by day; build your route around that.
• Safety is high, as everywhere in Korea; you should be more careful about the weather and the ferry timetable than about crime.