Istanbul

Istanbul is the only large metropolis on the planet to spread across two continents at once: the western part of the city lies in Europe, the eastern in Asia, and the Bosphorus strait divides them. Over a history some eight and a half thousand years long it has managed to be the capital of two great empires — the Byzantine, under the name Constantinople, and the Ottoman — and today it remains the largest city in Turkey (around 15 million inhabitants) and one of the most visited destinations in the world.

A little history

The city was founded by Greek colonists around the 7th century BC under the name Byzantium. In 330 the emperor Constantine the Great made it the new capital of the Roman Empire and renamed it Constantinople, the "New Rome". For more than a thousand years it remained the heart of Christian Byzantium, until in 1453 it was taken by the armies of Sultan Mehmed II. From that moment the Ottoman era began: Christian churches were turned into mosques, and palaces, bazaars and baths were built. The city was officially renamed Istanbul in 1930, already under republican Turkey, although the name, which comes from a Greek expression meaning "to the city", had been in use long before. The historic core of Istanbul has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1985.

Main sights

The principal monuments are concentrated in the Sultanahmet district on the European shore and can be seen on foot in a day or two.

• Hagia Sophia. Raised under the emperor Justinian in the 6th century, for almost a thousand years it was the largest Christian church in the world. After 1453 it became a mosque, under the republic a museum, and since 2020 it has functioned as a mosque again. A unique combination of Byzantine gold mosaics and Islamic calligraphy beneath a colossal dome. Entry is free; during prayers visitors are asked to wait. It is best to arrive at opening, around 8 in the morning, before the queues form.
• The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Mosque). Built at the beginning of the 17th century opposite Hagia Sophia. It is famous for its six minarets (a rarity for its day) and for tens of thousands of Iznik tiles, predominantly blue, which gave the mosque its unofficial name. It is a working mosque; entry is free, but modest dress and removed shoes are required.
• The Suleymaniye Mosque. A masterpiece by the great architect Mimar Sinan, built in the middle of the 16th century for Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. It stands on a hill with one of the finest views over the Golden Horn. Less crowded than the Blue Mosque but no less majestic; the tombs of Suleiman and his wife Hurrem stand alongside it.
• Topkapi Palace. For nearly four centuries the main residence of the Ottoman sultans. The complex of courtyards, pavilions and gardens includes the treasury with the legendary Topkapi Dagger and the Spoonmaker's Diamond, as well as the Harem, for which entry is charged separately. From here a panorama opens over the meeting of the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara.
• The Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan). A 6th-century underground reservoir supported by 336 marble columns. Deep inside are two columns resting on upturned heads of the Gorgon Medusa. The cool half-darkness and the lighting create an almost theatrical atmosphere.
• The Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi). One of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, founded shortly after 1461. Thousands of shops under vaulted galleries trade in carpets, jewellery, leather, ceramics and spices. Haggling here is customary and expected.
• The Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar. A smaller but no less colourful market beside the New Mosque, selling spices, dried fruit, nuts, tea, sweets and Turkish delight.
• The Galata Tower and the Galata Bridge. A 14th-century stone tower of Genoese construction in the Beyoglu district, with a circular viewing gallery. At its foot the two-level Galata Bridge crosses the Golden Horn; fish restaurants work on the lower deck, while anglers stand with their rods on the upper one from morning to night.
• The Maiden's Tower (Kiz Kulesi). A small tower on an islet in the middle of the Bosphorus near the Asian shore, wrapped in legends; one of the city's symbols and a favourite subject for photographs.
• Dolmabahce Palace. The lavish 19th-century residence of the sultans on the shore of the Bosphorus, built in European style with an abundance of gold, crystal and marble. Ataturk, the founder of the republic, spent his last days here.

Beyond the centre, the fortress of Rumelihisari deserves attention — a powerful stronghold raised by Mehmed II on the European bank of the Bosphorus before the assault on Constantinople — as does the Miniaturk park with scale models of Turkey's main monuments, a convenient introduction to the country as a whole.

Districts and places

Sultanahmet is the historic core on the European side, where almost all the main monuments are concentrated. Beyoglu and Karakoy form the modern centre, with galleries, cafes, bars and the pedestrian Istiklal Avenue leading up to Taksim Square. Balat and Fener are the old Jewish and Greek quarters, with brightly coloured houses, antique shops and photogenic lanes; nearby, on the hill above the Golden Horn, stands the famous Pierre Loti cafe, reached by cable car for the sake of the panorama.

The Asian shore often stays off the tourist routes, and undeservedly so. Kadikoy is a lively district with a large food market, bars and authentic street life without the crush of visitors. Quiet Kuzguncuk, with its wooden mansions, and welcoming Arnavutkoy on the European side have kept the atmosphere of the old Bosphorus villages. Bebek is a fashionable district with a waterfront and views over the strait. At the northern end of the Bosphorus, where it opens into the Black Sea, lies Anadolu Kavagi with the ruins of a Genoese fortress — the terminus of many cruises. Calm Kanlica and Beykoz on the Asian shore are known for their traditional yoghurt and their greenery.

The Princes' Islands in the Sea of Marmara are worth a day of their own: ferries run out to them from the city, and motor traffic on the islands is restricted, which makes them ideal for exploring on foot, by bicycle or by electric buggy.

The Bosphorus, parks and viewpoints

A trip along the Bosphorus is an obligatory item on the programme. Scheduled city ferries and tourist boats run along both shores past palaces, fortresses and the wooden yali mansions, letting you see two continents in a single outing. The best views of the city open from the Camlica hill on the Asian side, from the terraces of the Suleymaniye Mosque, from the Pierre Loti cafe and from the viewing gallery of the Galata Tower. Gulhane Park by the walls of Topkapi and the quays of the Golden Horn are pleasant for walking.

What to do and what to try

Besides the museums and mosques, it is worth setting aside time for a Turkish hamam — the old bathhouse with marble halls, a scrub and a foam massage; historic baths from the 16th century survive in the city. In the evening, people stroll along Istiklal, drink tea in traditional coffee houses and watch the anglers on the Galata Bridge.

Istanbul's street food is part of the experience. Be sure to try balik ekmek, grilled fish in bread right by the piers at Eminonu, mussels with rice (midye dolma), sold by the piece, simit, the sesame bread ring, and also kebabs, doner and sweet lokum. Real Turkish coffee brewed in a cezve, and strong tea in little tulip-shaped glasses, accompany every meal. To eat as the locals do, head for the Kadikoy market, the lokantas (canteens serving home cooking) of Beyoglu and the fish restaurants under the Galata Bridge.

Getting there and getting around

Two airports serve Istanbul: the large Istanbul Airport (IST) on the European side and Sabiha Gokcen (SAW) on the Asian side, which takes more of the low-cost flights. From both you can reach the centre on the Havaist/Havabus shuttle buses, and from IST by metro as well. City transport is varied: metro, trams, buses, and the ferries that link the European and Asian shores. The convenient way to pay is to buy an Istanbulkart and top it up at the machines — it works on every mode of transport including the ferries and is noticeably cheaper than single tickets. The historic centre of Sultanahmet is compact and best seen on foot; between the two shores, the ferry is both the quickest and the most scenic option.

A five-day route

• Day 1. Sultanahmet: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern, Topkapi Palace, Gulhane Park.
• Day 2. The Grand Bazaar and the Egyptian Bazaar, the Suleymaniye Mosque, a walk along the Golden Horn, the Galata Bridge and the Galata Tower.
• Day 3. A Bosphorus cruise with stops at the Rumelihisari fortress and Dolmabahce Palace, and an evening in Beyoglu on Istiklal.
• Day 4. The Asian side: Kadikoy with its market, Kuzguncuk, the Maiden's Tower, and a traditional hamam in the evening.
• Day 5. The colourful quarters of Balat and Fener, or a trip to the Princes' Islands, with unhurried walking and shopping.

Practical advice

The best time to travel is spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October), when the summer heat and the crowds are absent. Mosques require covered clothing, and a headscarf for women; you should not go inside during prayers. Many of the larger museums close one day a week, so it is worth planning the route in advance. Haggling is in order at the bazaars and in the shops, but prices in cafes and restaurants are fixed. Five days allow you to see both the main monuments and the living, untouristed districts on either side of the Bosphorus without hurrying.