Melbourne

Melbourne is the largest city in the Australian state of Victoria and the second largest in the country, spread along the shores of Port Phillip Bay at the mouth of the Yarra. It is called the coffee capital of the world and the cultural alternative to Sydney: for years the city topped the rankings of the most liveable metropolises, combining Victorian architecture, a maze of graffiti-covered laneways, free trams in the centre and one of the strongest restaurant scenes on the planet.

History and character of the city

Melbourne grew quickly: founded in 1835 on the lands of the Kulin peoples, it became an immensely wealthy city thanks to the gold rush of the 1850s. The influx of prospectors brought capital, and the centre was built up with the grand buildings of the golden age — hence the nickname "Marvellous Melbourne". From 1901 to 1927 the city served as the temporary capital of Australia while Canberra was being built. Today it is a multinational centre with large Greek, Italian, Vietnamese and Chinese communities, which shapes both its food and its street life.

Main sights

• Flinders Street Station — the symbol of Melbourne, an Edwardian baroque building with a yellow facade and a dome, opened in 1909. The phrase "meet me under the clocks" is familiar to every local.
• The laneways and arcades — the heart of the city's culture. Degraves Street is famous for its cafes and European atmosphere, Hosier Lane and AC/DC Lane are covered in constantly changing street art, and the historic Royal Arcade and Block Arcade astonish with their mosaic floors and glass vaults.
• Fitzroy and Collingwood — the bohemian districts north of the centre: vintage shops, independent galleries, bars and hipster coffee houses along Brunswick Street and Smith Street.
• The National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) — the oldest and largest art museum in the country, in two buildings; entry to the permanent collection is free.
• Queen Victoria Market — a historic open-air trading complex selling seafood, cheeses, delicacies, clothing and souvenirs.
• Gardens and the riverside — the Royal Botanic Gardens, Fitzroy Gardens with Captain Cook's cottage, and the renewed Southbank district with its promenade along the Yarra.

Routes out of town

Melbourne is an ideal base for day trips. The Great Ocean Road is one of the most spectacular coastal routes in the world: over 3–4 hours of driving it opens up the limestone stacks of the Twelve Apostles, the Loch Ard Gorge and a string of surf towns. To the east lie the Dandenong Ranges with their ancient forests and the old Puffing Billy steam railway, and to the north-east the Yarra Valley wine country.

Food and coffee

Coffee here is almost a religion: the flat white, an Australian invention, is made on every corner, and roasters such as St Ali and Proud Mary set standards for the whole world. The food reflects the city's many nationalities: dim sum and duck in Chinatown, pasta and gelato on Lygon Street, Greek tavernas in the Greek precinct, Vietnamese pho and rice bowls out in Footscray. Indicative prices (according to Numbeo): an inexpensive lunch from 14 AUD, dinner in a mid-range restaurant about 50 AUD, a cup of coffee roughly 4 AUD.

Transport

Within the free City Circle tram zone you can move around the centre at no cost — convenient for taking in the key sights. Beyond it you need a rechargeable myki card (a journey costs about 2 AUD). There is no direct train from Tullamarine airport: SkyBus coaches run into the centre (around 20 AUD), or a taxi (about 50 AUD).

Practical advice

• The weather is changeable — locals joke that you get all four seasons in a day; dress in layers and take a windproof jacket even in summer.
• Allow about four days for the city and one or two trips out of town.
• Accommodation ranges from hostels (from 30 AUD a night) to mid-range hotels (about 150 AUD).
• Sport is part of the identity: the city hosts the Australian Open, the Formula 1 Grand Prix and the Australian Football grand final at the MCG.