Safety in Iraq

Regional differences: Kurdistan is calm to the point where night walks are normal. Central and southern Iraq are more complicated, though foreign visitors are met with real warmth almost everywhere.
After dark: Moving between cities after sunset is a bad idea. The risk of trouble on an empty highway or of getting stuck at a closed post is higher, so plan every transfer for daylight.
Photography: Photographing soldiers, police, government buildings and oil installations is absolutely forbidden. Even an accidental frame with a derrick in the background can lead to detention.
Checkpoints: Be ready for dozens of road checks. Stay polite, do not argue with soldiers, and say your nationality clearly and cheerfully, which usually ends the conversation.
Shrines: Security is heavy in Karbala and Najaf and you will be searched at the mosque entrances. Leave cameras and large bags in the storage lockers rather than attracting the guards' attention.
Crowds: During religious festivals such as Arbaeen the crush in these cities goes beyond anything you have seen. If you dislike crowds, avoid the south on those dates.
Advisories: Conditions shift by province, so read your own government's travel advisory before you commit to a route.

Iraq comprises two very different realities. Iraqi Kurdistan in the north — Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Duhok — is noticeably calmer and receives tourists. The rest of the country remains difficult and a number of areas are dangerous.

The situation. Armed groups are present, a terrorist threat persists, and kidnapping of foreigners remains a real risk in the central and southern provinces. Most governments advise against travel to Iraq, with a less strict caveat for Kurdistan.

Money. A cash economy; international cards work poorly. Bring dollars, accepted everywhere alongside the dinar.

Taxis. No meters; agree the price. Local apps operate in Erbil.

"Guides" and tours. The industry in Kurdistan is only forming. Check the operator, their permits, and their understanding of conditions on the route.

Attention on foreigners. Tourists are few, hospitality is strong, and the interest is sincere.

Two jurisdictions. Federal Iraq and the Kurdistan Region have different visa regimes: a visa obtained for Kurdistan does not always permit entry to the rest of Iraq, and vice versa. Check this in advance and plan the route accordingly.

Photography. Military installations, checkpoints, armed personnel, oil infrastructure and government buildings are categorically off limits. Checkpoints are very numerous, and this is the commonest source of trouble.

Drones. Prohibited and confiscated.

Alcohol. Sold legally in Kurdistan; federal Iraq applies restrictions up to prohibition. Do not drink in public anywhere.

Drugs. The law is severe.

Mines and unexploded ordnance. Decades of war have left extensive contaminated areas, especially around Mosul, in Sinjar and along former front lines. Do not leave roads or enter ruined buildings.

Where people do not go. Anbar, Salah al-Din and Diyala provinces, parts of Nineveh, and the Syrian border areas. Conditions change.

Dress. Modest, and a headscarf is compulsory for women at religious sites.

Vaccinations. None mandatory. Hepatitis A, typhoid, polio and rabies are advised.

Water. Bottled only. Networks in many areas are damaged.

The heat is extreme. Summer in Baghdad and Basra passes 50°C, among the hottest cities on the planet. Electricity supply is unstable and air conditioning does not always run. Trips are planned for November to April.

Dust storms. In spring and summer, with reduced visibility and hard breathing.

Healthcare. The system has suffered from decades of conflict. Erbil has acceptable private clinics, as does Baghdad, but anything serious means evacuation to Turkey, Jordan or the UAE. Your insurance must expressly cover Iraq — most policies exclude it.

Medicines. Bring your own with a surplus.

Emergency numbers: 104 ambulance, 122 police.

Iraq ranks low on the Corruption Perceptions Index, and security is provided by a combination of the army, police and armed groups.

Checkpoints. Very numerous, especially at city entrances and between provinces. Document checks are routine but take time. Stay calm, keep your passport and permits ready, and do not film.

Kurdistan. Conditions in Erbil and Sulaymaniyah are noticeably calmer: hotels operate, tourism exists, and police are correct. But it is still Iraq and the general rules apply.

Kidnapping. A real risk for foreigners in the central and southern provinces, particularly when travelling independently. Organisations working there use strict security protocols.

Consular assistance. Diplomatic presence is limited and the capacity to help is small.

What actually matters. Iraq is not a single country in security terms. Kurdistan is open and relatively calm; the rest is not. Plan a trip with a local operator monitoring conditions daily, not on advice six months old.