Safety in Malawi

Theft. The country is among the calmest in the region, but pickpockets work the busy markets. Keep valuables in a money belt and do not display large sums in front of anyone.
Malaria. This is the main threat to your health and prophylaxis is genuinely essential. Sleep under a net and use strong repellent from late afternoon onwards.
Bilharzia. Parasites live in still water near the shore, so swim where the water moves and is deep. Diving and snorkelling away from the reeds is generally considered safe.
Night travel. Moving between towns after dark is a very bad idea given the total absence of lighting. Animals and livestock wander onto the road and serious crashes follow.
Wildlife. On safari and at lakeside camps, remember that hippos and crocodiles kill people. Never approach for a photograph and always follow your guide's instructions.
Money scams. Changing money on the street invites short-counting and forged notes. Count kwacha yourself and hand over nothing until you have checked the whole amount.
Police. Attitudes to foreigners are friendly, but roadside document checks are frequent. Carry a good copy of your passport and leave the original in the hotel safe.

Malawi is called the "warm heart of Africa", and the reputation is deserved: people here are exceptionally friendly and violent crime against tourists is low.

Lilongwe and Blantyre. Pickpockets at markets and bus stations, and theft from cars. Nobody walks at night.

Lake Malawi. The main tourist destination. "Guides" and vendors work at Cape Maclear and Nkhata Bay, persistently but without aggression. Agree prices in advance.

Woodcarving. Malawian craftsmen make excellent work and haggling is compulsory. The opening price is triple.

Currency exchange. Official and parallel kwacha rates have differed. Change at banks and licensed bureaux — street exchange is illegal.

Taxis. Agree in advance; there are no meters.

Fuel. Shortages arise periodically with queues at filling stations. Refuel at half a tank.

Same-sex relations are criminalised and society is conservative.

Photography. Military installations, police, the presidential residence and airports are off limits. Always ask people.

Drones. Permission is required.

Wildlife. Liwonde and Majete national parks have been restored and work well. Rules are strict: do not leave the vehicle and do not approach the water — hippos and crocodiles are numerous on the Shire.

Exports. Ivory and animal products are prohibited. Rosewood and ebony carvings may require documentation.

Drugs. The law is strict. Malawi produces cannabis ("Malawi Gold") and offers to sell occur — that is a criminal offence.

Driving on the left. Nobody drives between towns at night: pedestrians and cyclists without lights are on the roads.

Dress. The country is conservative, and women in villages should cover their knees.

Malaria. Very high risk nationwide year-round, the lakeshore included. Prophylaxis is unconditionally essential.

Schistosomiasis is Malawi's distinctive issue. Lake Malawi is infected, and the risk from swimming is real and high. This is not theory: people are infected regularly, tourists who swam "just once" included. Symptoms appear weeks later. The practical approach: either do not swim, or swim knowingly and then test and treat with praziquantel 6 to 8 weeks after the trip — as many residents do.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, rabies and cholera. A yellow fever certificate is required from arrivals out of endemic countries.

Water. Bottled only.

Healthcare. Among the weakest systems in the region. Lilongwe and Blantyre have basic private clinics. Anything serious means evacuation to Johannesburg. Insurance with air evacuation is essential.

Crocodiles and hippos. A real danger on the Shire river and in the lake, especially near village shorelines.

Emergency numbers: 997 police, 998 ambulance.

Malawi sits mid-table in Africa on corruption, and police are generally friendly with tourists.

Checkpoints. Numerous on the highways with document checks. Requests for "help" occur, but less often than among its neighbours.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates issued. English is official and communication is simple.

The lake. Tourism infrastructure works at Cape Maclear and Nkhata Bay and conditions are calm. The main complaints are petty theft from bungalows.

Urban caution. In Lilongwe and Blantyre, travel by car after dark and keep valuables out of sight.

Attitude to visitors. Among the warmest in Africa. Help on the road and genuine interest are the norm.

What actually matters. Malawi's main risks are malaria, schistosomiasis in the lake, and weak healthcare. Crime comes last on the list of dangers here.

Emergency number is 997.