Safety in Mozambique

General caution: the tourist areas in the south are welcoming and easy. The main risk is petty theft in crowded parts of the capital, so keep expensive gear out of sight and do not leave bags unattended on a public beach.
The north: Cabo Delgado province remains a risk area because of the ongoing insurgency. Before travelling to Pemba or the Quirimbas, check recent news and your own government's travel advisory, because the picture changes.
Checkpoints: document checks on the highways are common for both drivers and passengers. Always carry your original passport, and be polite and unhurried, which is the fastest way through the formalities.
Malaria and hygiene: malaria is present throughout the country, so prophylaxis and good repellent are genuinely necessary. Drink bottled water only and avoid ice in questionable places, and bring a basic medical kit from home.
After dark: move around towns at night only in a trusted taxi. Street lighting is frequently absent, and it is worth carrying your hotel's card with the address to show a driver.
Tides: the tidal range here is large and the water returns fast. Be careful on long walks across exposed seabed, and keep watching the water so you are not cut off on a sandbar.

Mozambique has a stunning coastline and very different conditions by region. The south, with Maputo and Tofo, receives tourists; the north is affected by armed conflict.

Maputo. Pickpockets and bag snatching in the centre, especially near markets and on the waterfront in the evening. Nobody walks at night.

Traffic police and "fines". Mozambique's historic affliction: highway posts stop foreign-plated cars and find an offence. Compulsory equipment includes two reflective triangles, a vest, a first aid kit, a fire extinguisher and a nationality sticker. Missing any item provides formal grounds. Carry the full set and ask for a receipt.

Currency exchange. Change at banks. Street changers at the South African border short-change.

Bazaruto and Quirimbas excursions. Diving and boat trips are sold locally with varying quality. Check equipment and insurance.

Taxis. Agree in advance; there are no meters.

The north — Cabo Delgado. The northern province has been affected by armed conflict since 2017: attacks, displacement and a security force presence. People do not go there, and tourist routes into the Quirimbas are largely suspended. Check conditions immediately before travelling.

Photography. Military installations, police, airports, ports, bridges and government buildings are categorically off limits. This is one of the commonest causes of detention in Mozambique, and it is treated more seriously than in neighbouring countries.

Documents. Carrying your original passport or a certified copy is compulsory: police check, and a plain photocopy is sometimes not accepted.

Drones. Permission is required.

Mines. Mozambique was officially declared mine-free in 2015 after a major clearance programme, but caution in remote areas does no harm.

Wildlife. Exporting ivory and sea turtle products is prohibited.

Drugs. The law is strict.

Driving on the left. Nobody drives between towns at night.

Malaria. High risk nationwide year-round, the coast and Maputo included. Prophylaxis is essential.

Yellow fever. A certificate is required from arrivals out of endemic countries.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A, typhoid, rabies, and cholera for longer stays.

Cholera. Outbreaks occur, especially after cyclones and flooding.

Water. Bottled only.

Cyclones. The season runs November to April. Mozambique takes hits regularly and hard: cyclones Idai and Kenneth caused catastrophic destruction. Follow forecasts in season.

The sea. The coast is magnificent, but currents are strong in places and there are no lifeguards. Diving at Bazaruto and Tofo is excellent, but the only hyperbaric chamber is in Maputo.

Healthcare. Weak. Maputo has private clinics; the rest of the country has almost nothing. Anything serious means evacuation to South Africa. Insurance with air evacuation is essential.

Emergency numbers: 119 police, 117 ambulance.

Mozambique ranks low on the Corruption Perceptions Index, and dealing with the police is the main practical difficulty of a trip.

Road posts. Numerous, especially on the EN1 and near the South African border. Documents and vehicle equipment are checked. Calmly ask for an official report and a receipt — that often ends the conversation.

Photography and the police. The commonest conflict. If an officer demands you delete a photograph, do not argue.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates for insurers issued. The language is Portuguese, with English in the tourism sector and in Maputo.

Maputo at night. Travel by car. The waterfront and centre are lively in the evening, but valuables stay out of sight.

South and north are different countries. Maputo, Tofo, Vilanculos and Bazaruto are ordinary tourist places. Cabo Delgado is a conflict zone. Judge the specific province.

Emergency number is 119.