Riyadh

The capital of Saudi Arabia and the largest city on the Arabian Peninsula — around 7 million people in the city proper and 8 million in the wider area, in the middle of the Najd desert. It began as a small oasis village (the name comes from the Arabic for "gardens") and became the capital under Ibn Saud in 1932. The oil boom of the 1970s turned it into a modern city of glass towers. Saudi Arabia has issued tourist visas since 2019 — before that only business and Hajj travel was possible — and Riyadh is opening to the world fast. Vision 2030 launched the NEOM and Diriyah megaprojects as tourist destinations.

Main sights

• Masmak Fort — Riyadh's principal historic monument, a mud-brick fortress of 1865. In 1902 the young Ibn Saud stormed it and killed the emir of Riyadh, the founding event of Saudi Arabia. It is now the city's main museum.
• Kingdom Centre Tower — 302 m, the symbol of modern Riyadh. The Sky Bridge between its two arms on the 99th floor is the best viewpoint in the city.
• Al Faisaliyah Tower — 267 m, the city's other landmark, with the Globe observation sphere.
• Diriyah (At-Turaif) — a UNESCO site, the mud-brick former capital of the First Saudi State (1744-1818). It is now the largest tourism project under Vision 2030 and has reopened after restoration.
• The National Museum of Saudi Arabia — the country's main museum, with eight galleries running from prehistory to the founding of the state.
• Murabba Palace — Ibn Saud's residence from 1936 to 1953, now part of the National Museum.
• King Abdulaziz Historical Centre — the memorial complex to the founder of the country.
• Bujairi Terrace — a modern dining quarter beside Diriyah, opened in 2021.
• The Edge of the World — the great natural sight near Riyadh, 90 km out: a 700-metre escarpment in the desert with a view over an endless plain. Reachable only by 4×4.
• Riyadh Boulevard — the largest entertainment district in the city, Las Vegas in spirit, opened in 2019.
• Souq Al Zal — the traditional market of old Riyadh, selling carpets and antiques.
• Al Bujairi and Al Tayyibat — traditional quarters of restored mud-brick architecture.
• King Abdullah Park — the main city park, with dancing fountains.
• Riyadh Front — a modern retail and entertainment zone.

Food and prices

The cooking is Saudi: kabsa (the national dish — spiced rice with meat, usually lamb or camel), mandi (lamb cooked in an underground oven), madhbi (grilled), saleeg (a rice porridge), gahwa (Arabic coffee with cardamom) and dates. Alcohol is completely banned. Lunch at a local place is $8-15, dinner in a restaurant $25-50. A litre of petrol costs $0.60, as you would expect in the world's leading oil exporter; a Careem or Uber ride is $5-15, and the Riyadh metro, opened in 2024, costs $1-2.

Getting there

King Khalid International Airport (RUH), 35 km out, is served by Saudia, the national carrier, along with Emirates, Qatar, Lufthansa and Turkish. A taxi or Careem into the centre is $25-40. Around town you use Careem and Uber or the metro (six lines, opened in 2024). Saudi Arabia issues a tourist eVisa online, often within minutes, valid for 90 days, to a long list of nationalities — check whether yours is eligible. The dress code eased in 2019: women are not required to wear a headscarf, though clothing should be modest, and couples no longer need to be married to share a hotel room.

When to go

November to March, at 12-25°C, is ideal. In winter (December-February) nights can be cold at 5-12°C, but the days are pleasant. Summer (May-September) is extreme, 40-48°C. During Ramadan restaurants are closed during daylight and open only after iftar. Riyadh Season, from October to March, is the main festival period, with concerts, exhibitions and shows.