India

The Taj Mahal: The legendary mausoleum in Agra, which you want to see at dawn before the crowds and the heat arrive. Remember that it closes to visitors on Fridays.

Amber Fort: The magnificent fortress above Jaipur, worth the trip for the Mirror Hall alone. You can walk up rather than taking an elephant ride, which is the better choice anyway.

The ghats of Varanasi: The stone steps down to the Ganges, where the mesmerising Aarti ritual takes place every evening. It is free and it is the strongest single impression of the trip.

Qutub Minar: The brick minaret in Delhi with astonishing stone carving. The atmospheric ruins beside it are perfect for photographs without the usual scrum.

Hampi: The ruins of an ancient empire scattered among giant boulders, looking like another planet. Give it a couple of days to feel the place properly.

Hawa Mahal: Jaipur's famous "Palace of Winds" with its hundreds of latticed windows. The best view of the facade is from the café directly across the road.

Currency: The Indian rupee (INR) is the only means of payment. Reckoning prices is easy: divide rupees by roughly 90 for dollars.

Cards: Visa and Mastercard are accepted at hotels, chain cafés and larger shops, and Amex much less so. Everywhere else, from dhabas to rickshaws, is strictly cash, so never set out without notes in your pocket.

Apps: Foreigners can use the Cheq service to pay by QR code through India's UPI system. It is genuinely convenient and saves you carrying wads of small notes.

Tipping: Around ten percent in restaurants if no service charge is included. Fifty rupees is enough for a porter, and 200 to 500 for a driver who has worked all day.

Bargaining: This is part of the culture in markets and with rickshaw drivers. Halve the opening price without hesitation, but do it with a smile, because aggression gets you nowhere.

Item	Price (USD)
Street samosa	0.20
Masala chai	0.15
Meal at a dhaba	1.50
Restaurant dinner	7.00
1 litre of water	0.25
0.65L beer	3.50
Hostel bed	5.00
Guesthouse night	15.00
Train 3AC, 200 km	6.00
Train 2AC, 200 km	10.00
Rickshaw, 3-5 km	1.00
Delhi metro	0.50
SIM card, one month	4.00
Taj Mahal entry	14.00

Trains: This is the best way to see the country. For comfort choose 2AC or 3AC with air conditioning, and book ahead through Cleartrip or IRCTC.

Flights: Domestic low-cost carriers like IndiGo fly frequently and cost little booked a month out. That saves days on the Delhi to Mumbai or Goa runs.

Taxis: In the big cities, install Uber or Ola. It removes exhausting negotiation with drivers and guarantees a fair metered price.

Rickshaws: Three-wheeled auto rickshaws are nimble in traffic, but always agree the fare before getting in. If a driver will not use the app, wave him on and take the next one.

Buses: Sleeper coaches with berths run between cities as an alternative to trains, though bear in mind the chaotic driving on Indian roads.

Metro: Delhi has an excellent network that gets you under the gridlock quickly and cheaply. There are carriages reserved for women only.

Guesthouses: Small family-run hotels are the warmest option. In Delhi look around Karol Bagh, and in Agra choose Taj Ganj for proximity to the mausoleum.

Hostels: Chains like Zostel and Moustache deliver reliable cleanliness and a social scene. They are the easiest way to meet other travellers.

Havelis: In Rajasthan you can stay in old merchant mansions with carved balconies and courtyards. It costs a little more and feels like living in a palace.

Booking: Use Booking or local aggregators like MakeMyTrip. In low season you can turn up and negotiate on the spot, often getting up to thirty percent off.

Where to stay: In Delhi, Paharganj is extremely noisy, so Hauz Khas is the better pick. Mumbai is expensive, so aim for the historic Fort district.

Check first: Confirm there is a heater for northern winters and that the air conditioning works in summer. Hot water in budget places often runs on a schedule.

Thali: The universal Indian meal on a tray, with rice, breads and a set of curries. At a simple roadside dhaba it is the most filling and cheapest thing you can order.

Dosa: A thin crisp rice-flour pancake usually served at breakfast. Try the masala dosa with its potato filling and fragrant coconut chutney.

Hygiene: Never drink tap water and avoid ice in drinks. Use bottled water even for brushing your teeth, which is the single most effective way not to lose days to illness.

Heat: If you dislike chilli, always say "no spicy", though Indian definitions of that are elastic. Vegetarian food is generally the safer bet than meat.

Street food: Eat snacks like samosas where there is a queue of locals. That is your guarantee that nothing has been sitting around.

Chai: The national drink is masala chai with milk and spices. It is sold on every corner in small glasses and is the fastest way to revive yourself.

Scams: Be ready for lines like "the road is closed" or "your hotel burned down". These are always lies, designed to steer you into a particular travel agency or a different hotel, so keep walking and check for yourself.

Crowds: In busy places and on trains, watch your pockets. Do not leave valuables visible and use locks on your backpack during journeys.

Women travellers: Solo female travellers should avoid dark lanes alone in the evening. Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, which noticeably reduces unwanted attention.

Roads: Traffic is chaotic and pavements barely exist. To cross a street, simply move with the flow of local people and avoid sudden movements.

Animals: Cows on the road are sacred and must not be harmed. Monkeys around temples can be aggressive and will steal phones, so do not hold food in your hands.

Health: Get hepatitis and typhoid vaccinations before you travel. Take out good insurance, since decent care in private clinics is expensive.

Shoes: Always take them off before entering temples, mosques and even private homes. Leave them at the entrance or hand them in at a stand for a small coin.

The right hand: Use only the right hand for eating, passing money and shaking hands. The left is traditionally considered unclean, so respect the convention.

The head wobble: The famous side-to-side head movement can mean "yes" or "I understand you". It is not a refusal but a polite signal of attention.

Religion: India is saturated with spirituality, so keep quiet in sacred places. Photography is banned in some temples, so look for the signs.

Time: Indian time is famously elastic. Being late to meetings and trains running a couple of hours behind are simply how things work here.

Dress: However hot it gets, revealing clothes are not the thing to wear in cities. A modest appearance earns more trust and attracts fewer stares.

SIM cards: Buying a physical SIM in a shop is a long quest involving photocopies. Get one at the airport instead, at the Airtel or Jio desks.

eSIM: A virtual plan through Yesim or Airalo is the simplest option of all. You have data the moment you land, with none of the bureaucracy.

Coverage: Signal is excellent in the big cities and at resorts, often 5G. In the mountains it drops out, so download offline maps in advance.

Messaging: All the usual apps work without restriction. Indians love WhatsApp, and you can often book a room or a guide through it.

Wi-Fi: In budget guesthouses the internet is often slow and works only in the lobby. If you need to work, always have a SIM as backup.

Apps: Download Uber for taxis, Zomato for food delivery and the official railways app for tracking your train's status.

English: English is very widely spoken, particularly in cities, hotels and transport, and most signage is bilingual, so you will rarely struggle to be understood.

English	Hindi	Pronunciation
Hello	नमस्ते	na-mas-TAY
Thank you	धन्यवाद	DHAN-ya-vaad
How are you?	क्या हाल है?	kya haal HAI
Yes	हाँ	haan
No	नहीं	na-HEEN
How much is it?	कितना है?	KIT-na hai
Too expensive	बहुत महँगा	ba-HUT MEHN-ga
Make it cheaper	कम करो	kam ka-RO
Water	पानी	PAA-nee
Very good	बहुत अच्छा	ba-HUT ACH-cha
Spicy	तीखा	TEE-kha
No spices	मसाला नहीं	ma-SAA-la na-HEEN
Where is the toilet?	टॉयलेट कहाँ है?	TOY-let ka-HAAN hai
Help me	मदद कीजिए	MA-dad KEE-ji-yay
Sorry	माफ कीजिए	maaf KEE-ji-yay
OK, fine	ठीक है	theek HAI
My friend	मेरा दोस्त	MAY-ra dost
Let's go	चलो	cha-LO
Stop	रोको	RO-ko
See you again	फिर मिलेंगे	phir mi-LEN-gay

Visa site: Apply only through the official portal indianvisaonline.gov.in. Be wary of intermediaries who charge extra for a process you can do yourself.

Rail tickets: The irctc.co.in portal or the Cleartrip app will sell you train tickets. Remember the waiting list system: a high number means you probably will not travel.

Consular help: Most countries keep an embassy in Delhi's Chanakyapuri district and consulates in Mumbai. Note the numbers in case you lose your documents.

Weather: Plan your trip between October and March, when the heat eases. April brings brutal temperatures and from June the monsoon floods the tourist states.

Medicines: Bring rehydration salts and something for an upset stomach. Indian pharmacies are good, but brand names differ, so having your own kit is easier.

Plugs: India uses types C and D. Continental European plugs generally fit, while UK, US and Australian ones need an adapter, and laptop chargers may too.