Edinburgh

Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland and its cultural centre, a city of around 520,000 people spread between hills and the waters of the Firth of Forth. Its dramatic skyline, in which a medieval castle hangs over blocks of Georgian building, makes it one of the most recognisable and picturesque capitals in Europe; the historic Old and New Towns are on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

A little history and geography

The city grew up around Castle Rock, the frozen plug of an ancient volcano that served as a natural fortress from the Iron Age. From it the old part of the city runs downhill eastwards along the ridge, in a dense network of narrow closes and tall tenements. In the 18th century, when the cramped Old Town was suffocating, a severe New Town of straight streets and squares was laid out across the valley where the Nor Loch had once stood (now Princes Street Gardens) — a model of Georgian town planning from the age of the Enlightenment. It was then that Edinburgh was nicknamed the "Athens of the North": the philosopher David Hume and the economist Adam Smith worked here.

Main sights

• Edinburgh Castle rises on a rock some 130 metres high and holds the Honours of Scotland, the Scottish crown jewels. The legendary Stone of Destiny, on which monarchs were crowned, is no longer here: it was moved to the new Perth Museum in March 2024. Inside are St Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building in the city, and the Mons Meg cannon. The One O'Clock Gun is fired from here at one o'clock every day except Sundays and a handful of holidays.
• The Royal Mile runs for about 1.8 km from the castle down to Holyrood Palace — a Scots mile, noticeably longer than the English one —, linking four old streets. Along it are St Giles' Cathedral with its crown steeple, museums, shops selling kilts and whisky, pubs and street performers.
• Holyroodhouse — the British monarch's official residence in Scotland, bound up with the fate of Mary, Queen of Scots. Beside it stands the modern Scottish Parliament building with its unusual architecture.
• The National Museum of Scotland, free to enter, tells the story of the country, its nature and its technology; there is a viewing terrace on the roof.
• Arthur's Seat — the summit of an extinct volcano in Holyrood Park, right inside the city. The climb takes about 45 minutes and is rewarded with a panorama of rooftops, the firth and the surrounding hills.
• The New Town shows a unified Georgian ensemble: Charlotte Square, George Street and the shops of Princes Street with the castle in view.

It is also worth climbing Calton Hill, with its unfinished "National Monument" in classical style and the best sunset views in the city.

Whisky and food

Edinburgh is a convenient starting point for getting to know Scotch whisky. The Scotch Whisky Experience by the castle runs tastings, and dozens of specialist bars pour hundreds of single malts. From the local kitchen, try haggis with neeps and tatties, smoked fish, the rich soup cullen skink and the sweet cranachan. The custom here is to begin the morning with a substantial Scottish breakfast.

Festival August

In summer the city turns into one enormous stage. The Edinburgh Fringe is the largest performing arts festival in the world: thousands of plays, stand-up sets and street performances, many of them free. Alongside it run the International Festival, the book festival and the famous Military Tattoo, a parade of military bands on the castle esplanade. In those weeks accommodation prices rise sharply and rooms must be booked far in advance.

Practical advice

• Getting there. There is a direct train from London (about 4.5 hours), frequent flights (roughly 1.5 hours) and night buses. The airport is connected to the centre by a fast tram and by buses.
• Getting around. The historic core is compact and good for walking; Lothian buses and the tram serve the wider city.
• Weather. The climate is changeable in any season — a waterproof jacket and comfortable shoes come in handy, since the Old Town streets are steep and cobbled.
• How long to allow. Three days are enough to see the castle and the Royal Mile, walk the New Town, climb Arthur's Seat and set aside time for museums or a day trip to the coast.

Edinburgh combines a slightly grim Gothic atmosphere, which bred its ghost legends and inspired the world of Harry Potter, with the lively energy of a university and festival city — it holds equal interest for lovers of history and for admirers of contemporary culture.