Stepantsminda

The main gateway to one of the most iconic peaks in the Caucasus — Mount Kazbek (5,047 m) — this village of around 1,300 residents sits at 1,740 m, 150 km from Tbilisi. Its former name, Kazbegi, is still widely used (the village was renamed Stepantsminda in 2007). The drive along the Georgian Military Highway over Jvari Pass is one of the most scenic routes in the Caucasus.

Main sights

• Gergeti Trinity Church (Tsminda Sameba) — Georgia's most iconic landmark, a 14th-century church at 2,170 m right at the foot of Mount Kazbek. From Stepantsminda it's a 1.5-2 hour hike (5 km, 600 m elevation gain) or a 30-minute 4x4 ride (105 GEL round trip). The classic shot is the church framed against Kazbek.
• Mount Kazbek (Mkinvartsveri, 5,047 m) — the second-highest volcano in the Caucasus after Elbrus and the third-highest peak in Georgia; the ascent is for experienced climbers (5-7 days).
• Georgian Military Highway — the main historic road across the Caucasus, running 213 km from Tbilisi to Vladikavkaz. Key stops: Zhinvali Reservoir, Ananuri Fortress, Gudauri, Jvari Pass (2,379 m) and Stepantsminda.
• Jvari Pass (2,379 m) — the highest point of the Georgian Military Highway; the 1983 Russia-Georgia Friendship Arch stands nearby, above Gudauri.
• Darial Gorge — a narrow gorge near the Georgia-Russia border.
• Gveleti Waterfalls — two waterfalls in Darial Gorge, by the village of the same name.
• Sno Valley — for trekking off the main tourist trails.
• Juta Valley — the main trekking destination, leading to the foot of Mount Chaukhi (3,842 m), 1.5 hours from Stepantsminda.
• Truso Valley — for treks to mineral springs.
• Gudauri — Georgia's leading ski resort, 32 km away, with 70+ km of pistes.
• Ananuri Fortress — a 13th-18th century fortress on the shore of the Zhinvali Reservoir.

Food and prices

The cuisine is mountain Georgian: khinkali (dumplings — especially hearty versions here), khachapuri, mtsvadi (grilled meat skewers), bozbashi (lamb soup) and fresh mountain cheese. Lunch at a café costs 13-24 GEL ($5-9); dinner at a guesthouse runs 31-66 GEL ($12-25). Prices are as of 2026. A litre of petrol costs 3 GEL (about $1); a taxi from Tbilisi costs 131-210 GEL ($50-80); a shared minibus (marshrutka) costs 21-31 GEL ($8-12); a taxi to Gergeti costs 105 GEL ($40) round trip.

Transport

There's no airport in Stepantsminda; the nearest is Tbilisi (TBS), 150 km away. A marshrutka from Tbilisi (departing from Didube station) takes 3-4 hours and costs 21-31 GEL ($8-12). A full-day taxi from Tbilisi costs 262-393 GEL ($100-150), covering stops at Zhinvali, Ananuri, Stepantsminda and Gergeti. Renting a car in Tbilisi costs 79-131 GEL ($30-50) per day — mountain driving here takes nerve and skill. In winter, Jvari Pass can close due to avalanches.

When to go

June-September is best, with temperatures of 12-22°C. July-August is peak season, when the alpine meadows are in bloom. May and October are ideal for avoiding crowds. Winter (December-March) is cold and passes may close, though Gudauri offers skiing. One key caveat: the weather changes fast, and there's no guarantee of a clear view of Kazbek — it's cloudy roughly half the time.