Vancouver

Vancouver is the largest city in the Canadian province of British Columbia and one of the most scenic metropolises on the west coast of North America. It spreads between the waters of the Pacific and the snowy ridges of the Coast Mountains, which makes it a rare place where a morning on the ski slopes combines easily with a walk along the beach in the afternoon.

General character

The city lies on the Burrard Peninsula, jutting into the Strait of Georgia, and is surrounded by inlets, rivers and wooded heights. Vancouver consistently appears in world quality-of-life rankings thanks to its mild climate, the accessibility of nature and a genuinely multinational way of life: dozens of languages are spoken here, and Asian, European and Indigenous cultures interweave in everyday life. It is largely this mixture that defines the character of the city, from its food to its architecture.

Main sights

• Stanley Park — the symbol of Vancouver and one of the largest city parks on the continent (about 405 ha). Just ten minutes from the centre, a genuine coastal forest survives; a seawall of almost nine kilometres runs around the perimeter for cyclists and walkers, and along the route you come upon the famous totem poles, a lighthouse and the secluded Third Beach.
• Gastown — the oldest quarter of the city, where its development began. Cobbled streets, red-brick 19th-century buildings, galleries and restaurants sit beside the steam clock, which releases clouds of steam with a whistle every fifteen minutes.
• Granville Island — a former industrial site under the Granville bridge, turned into a creative cluster. It holds a covered public market, artists' studios, small theatres and the local Granville Island Brewing.
• Capilano — a suspension bridge 137 m long, slung about 70 m above the river of the same name, with trails through the conifer canopy. A free alternative is the Lynn Canyon nature park, with a suspension bridge of its own.
• Chinatown — one of the largest Chinese quarters in North America, home to the classical Dr Sun Yat-Sen Garden, which recreates the Ming style.
• Whistler — a world-class ski resort about two hours away along the scenic Sea-to-Sky highway. In winter it draws skiers and snowboarders, in summer mountain bikers and walkers.

Districts and atmosphere

The compact downtown of glass skyscrapers runs up against the green wedge of Stanley Park. To the south, across the bridges, lie lively Yaletown and Kitsilano with their beaches and mountain views. The suburb of Richmond counts as the gastronomic capital of Chinese and Taiwanese cooking, while North and West Vancouver on the far side of the inlet give access to the slopes of Grouse Mountain and Seymour.

Food

Vancouver is famous for the quality of its seafood and its Asian gastronomy. Sushi here is made to a standard comparable with Japan, a result of the large Japanese community; Richmond serves excellent dim sum, and the signature local delicacy remains Dungeness crab. The picture is rounded out by a well-developed craft beer culture and the food stalls of the Granville Island market, which sell fresh fish, cheeses, baking and local farm produce.

Transport

The TransLink city network combines the SkyTrain elevated metro, buses and the SeaBus passenger ferry linking the centre with the north shore. Payment is by Compass card, with the fare depending on the number of zones crossed. The international airport is connected to the centre by the Canada Line — a journey of about 25 minutes.

Practical advice

Allow at least four days for a trip: enough to take in Stanley Park, Gastown and Granville Island without rushing, set aside time for Chinatown and make an excursion into the mountains or out to Whistler. Vancouver has the mildest climate in Canada, but in autumn and winter it rains often, so waterproof clothing and comfortable shoes are welcome at any time of year. Late spring and summer are considered the best season for the outdoors, when the weather is dry and warm.