Safety in Benin

The north. Do not travel to the northern districts bordering Burkina Faso and Niger. The kidnapping threat and armed group activity there are real, so keep your route in the south.
After dark. Avoid walking on Cotonou's beaches or empty streets once the sun is down. Robbery is uncommon, but the risk climbs sharply at night and away from the centre.
Roads. Statistically the biggest danger is a motorbike taxi crash, and they happen constantly. Insist on a moderate speed and change rider without embarrassment if yours drives wildly.
Scams. In markets and stations watch for pickpockets and decline the services of self-appointed guides. Count your change immediately and keep valuables in a belt under your clothing.
Health. Malaria is present throughout, so prophylaxis and repellent are genuinely essential. Carry insurance with strong coverage and the contact details of the nearest clinic.
Photography. Never photograph military sites, ports, airports or police. It leads to serious trouble with the authorities, up to detention and a long conversation.
Advisories. Check your own government's travel advice before booking, since the security picture in the north changes and affects insurance validity.

Benin is a small and relatively calm West African country, the birthplace of Vodun. Tourists are few and deception as an industry does not exist.

Cotonou. Pickpockets at the Dantokpa market — West Africa's largest — and at the port. Nobody walks at night.

Zemidjans. Motorcycle taxis in yellow shirts are the main transport. Cheap and convenient, but without helmets and with risky riding. This is the leading cause of injury to visitors.

"Guides" at Ganvié and Ouidah. The stilt village of Ganvié and the Route des Esclaves in Ouidah: a guide is offered at the entrance at a verbally quoted price. Agree in advance.

Vodun. Ceremonies are a genuine part of the culture rather than a show. An invitation may be sincere or may end with a demand for a large "donation". Go through your hotel or a licensed guide.

Currency exchange. The CFA franc is pegged to the euro, so there is little to cheat on. Change at banks.

The north. The districts bordering Burkina Faso and Niger — the Pendjari and W parks — are affected by incursions by armed groups from the Sahel. Conditions have deteriorated and travel there is not advised. Check the current situation.

Vodun and religious sites. Photographing rituals, fetishes and shrines only with permission. This is not a tourist nicety: it matters to local people and breaches are taken badly.

Photography. Military installations, police, the presidential palace and the airport are off limits.

Drones. Permission is required.

Drugs. The law is strict.

Exports. Ivory and animal products are prohibited. Old fetishes and masks may require a permit.

Roads. Nobody drives between towns at night: no lighting and motorcycles without lights.

Same-sex relations are not formally criminalised, but society is conservative.

Yellow fever is compulsory. A certificate is required on entry and checked.

Malaria. Very high risk year-round. Prophylaxis is unconditionally essential.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, meningococcus, rabies and polio.

Water. Bottled only.

The sea. The Atlantic coast at Cotonou has powerful rip currents and swimming there is dangerous. Drownings occur regularly and there are no lifeguards.

Heat and humidity. Above 30°C year-round, with the harmattan from December to February.

Healthcare. Weak. Cotonou has basic clinics. Anything serious means evacuation to Europe or South Africa. Insurance with evacuation cover is essential.

Emergency numbers: 117 police, 112 unified.

Benin sits mid-table in Africa on corruption, and police are generally correct with tourists.

Checkpoints. These occur on highways, especially in the north. Documents are checked and requests for "help" are possible.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates issued. The language is French; English is little spoken.

Cotonou at night. Travel by car.

The north. With deteriorating conditions on the border, the military presence there has increased. Tourist routes into Pendjari are suspended.

What actually matters. Benin's main risks are malaria, motorcycle taxis and the ocean. The country is welcoming, and its chief value is the living culture of Vodun and the history of the slave trade at Ouidah.

Emergency number is 117.