Safety in Central African Republic

The general picture: The country remains one of the most dangerous in the world because of a smouldering civil conflict. Plan your route carefully, stay on the established roads in the west and the south, and read your own government's travel advisory before you commit to anything.

Local guides: Moving around independently outside the capital is impossible and extremely risky. A reliable fixer is not a luxury but the thing that keeps a checkpoint conversation from turning into a problem.

Photography: Photographing soldiers, police or any government building is strictly forbidden. Even an accidental frame containing a person in uniform can end in arrest or a large demand for money.

After dark: Life in the towns shuts down at nightfall and the risk of robbery climbs sharply. Stay inside your hotel grounds and resist any urge to explore Bangui alone at night.

In the forest: In the national parks, do exactly what the rangers tell you. Meeting a wild elephant or a gorilla requires strict adherence to instructions so the animal is never provoked.

Health: Malaria is everywhere here and often severe. Start prophylactic tablets before you arrive and always sleep under a treated mosquito net.

The Central African Republic is in a protracted armed conflict. All governments advise against travel there under any circumstances.

What defines the situation. The government controls Bangui and part of the main roads; much of the territory is held by armed groups. Clashes, attacks on settlements and roadside ambushes occur regularly.

Kidnapping and attacks on foreigners. A real and systemic risk. The CAR is among the most dangerous countries for aid workers.

Practical realities. There is almost no infrastructure: roads are dirt and impassable in the rainy season, and electricity and communications are limited. International cards do not work and the economy runs on cash.

What is here. Dzanga-Sangha is one of the world's finest places to observe forest elephants and gorillas. Rare trips are organised there through specialist operators, but the logistics pass through a country in conflict.

Insurance. No standard policy covers the CAR.

The legal environment. State institutions are weak and in many areas the law does not operate.

Photography. Military installations, checkpoints, armed personnel and government buildings are categorically off limits. A permit is required even for ordinary photography.

Movement. Intercity roads are unsafe. Travel is mostly by humanitarian air services.

Curfew. Imposed in Bangui on multiple occasions.

Natural resources. Diamonds and gold are controlled by armed groups. Any offer to sell means a criminal case and dangerous contact.

Wildlife. Exporting ivory is prohibited and prosecuted.

Consular assistance. Diplomatic presence is minimal.

Yellow fever is compulsory. A certificate is required on entry.

Malaria. Very high risk year-round. Prophylaxis is unconditionally essential.

Other vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, meningococcus, rabies, polio and cholera.

Epidemics. Outbreaks of measles, cholera and hepatitis E are recorded. HIV prevalence is high.

Water. Unsafe everywhere.

The humanitarian situation. A large share of the population is displaced or in need of assistance.

Healthcare. Among the weakest systems in the world, with much of the service provided by international organisations. Evacuation is extremely difficult.

Climate. Equatorial, with a May-to-October rainy season.

The CAR sits at the very bottom of global safety rankings.

Who controls the ground. The government, with external support, holds Bangui and some corridors; the rest are areas of armed group activity.

Kidnapping and attacks. The main risk to a foreigner.

Checkpoints. Belonging to different forces, with demands for money ordinary.

Where people definitely do not go. Effectively the whole country beyond central Bangui, especially the north, the east and the frontiers with Chad, Sudan and the DRC.

Consular assistance. Minimal.

Who is there. UN and humanitarian staff, and researchers at Dzanga-Sangha. All of them work under security protocols.

The honest conclusion: the CAR is not a place for a tourist trip.