Safety in Congo

Overall: The Republic of the Congo is one of the steadier countries in the region, but do not switch off. Petty theft is common in the cities, so do not wave a phone around in a crowd, and use a licensed taxi after dark.

The Pool region: The area south of the capital was unstable for years. Before planning to drive from Brazzaville to the coast, check recent news; it is calm now but that can change quickly.

Checkpoints: Military patrols on the highways are frequent. Be polite, do not argue and never photograph them. Checks pass quickly if your passport and insurance are in order.

Malaria: Present across the whole country year-round. Take prophylaxis, use repellent and check the window screens in your room before you go to sleep.

Wildlife: In the northern forest the hazards are snakes and insects. Wear high closed boots and thick trousers for gorilla trekking, follow the guide exactly and never approach forest elephants alone.

Photography: There is a strict ban on photographing any government or military installation, including bridges, airports and anyone in uniform. Breaking it can cost you your camera or your liberty, so read your own government's travel advisory before you go.

The Republic of the Congo — not to be confused with the DRC across the river. The country is calmer than its neighbour, but tourists are almost absent.

Brazzaville and Pointe-Noire. Pickpockets at markets and theft from cars. Nobody walks at night.

Checkpoints and "formalities". The main scheme for a visitor: demands for payment. Keep documents in order.

Taxis. Green and white in Brazzaville; agree in advance.

Odzala-Kokoua. The gorilla national park is the main reason to come. Arranged through specialist operators and expensive. Check which flights and permits are included.

Currency exchange. The CFA franc is pegged to the euro. Change at banks.

Cash. Cards work on a limited basis.

Photography. Military installations, police, government buildings, bridges, the port and the airport are categorically off limits. Foreigners have been detained over photographs of ordinary views.

Drones. Prohibited without permission.

Photography permits. These formally exist and may be required for professional equipment. Check with your operator.

Wildlife. Exporting ivory and bushmeat is prohibited.

Pool. The Pool region south of Brazzaville was affected by armed conflict. Check conditions.

Drugs. The law is strict.

Roads. Few and in poor condition. A train runs between Brazzaville and Pointe-Noire, but its schedule is irregular.

The DRC border. The river ferry between Brazzaville and Kinshasa is a formal international crossing with all the procedures.

Yellow fever is compulsory. A certificate is required on entry.

Malaria. Very high risk year-round. Prophylaxis is unconditionally essential.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, rabies, polio and cholera.

Ebola. The region has experienced outbreaks; check the current situation.

Water. Bottled only.

Healthcare. Weak. Brazzaville and Pointe-Noire have basic clinics. Anything serious means evacuation to France or South Africa. Insurance with air evacuation is essential.

Forest. Equatorial and humid. Odzala has insects and snakes, and gorilla trekking rules are strict: masks, distance, and exclusion if you are ill.

Emergency numbers: 117 police.

The Republic of the Congo ranks low on the Corruption Perceptions Index and extortion occurs.

Checkpoints. Numerous, with demands for money ordinary. Documents in order, small notes separate.

Photography and the police. The commonest problem for a foreigner in this country.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates issued; the process is slow. The language is French.

Brazzaville at night. Travel by car.

Odzala. Rangers and the operator provide security in the park and conditions are controlled.

What actually matters. The Republic of the Congo's main risks are malaria, photography and checkpoints. The gorillas of Odzala justify the trip, but it is organised as an expedition.

Emergency number is 117.