Safety in Ghana

The general picture: Ghana is among the calmest countries in the region. People are genuinely friendly, and solo women travellers report feeling comfortable here in a way they often don't elsewhere in West Africa.

Petty theft: pickpockets work Makola market and the crowds around the tro-tro stations. Nothing valuable in a back pocket, and no waving an expensive phone around in poorer neighbourhoods.

The far north: avoid the border areas with Burkina Faso, particularly around Bawku, where there is real instability. This is not a place to pass through out of curiosity.

After dark: don't walk, even short distances. Order a car through an app; it costs a couple of dollars and removes the attention you would otherwise attract.

The law: legislation affecting LGBTIQ people is severe, and public displays of affection or support can lead to prosecution. Travellers should be aware of this before planning a trip.

Malaria: a real and constant risk. Take the prophylaxis, use repellent, and sleep under the net that nearly every hotel provides. Check your own government's travel advisory for the current regional picture.

Ghana is one of West Africa's calmest and most welcoming countries. Violent crime against tourists is low, but schemes around money do occur.

Accra. Pickpockets at the Makola and Kaneshie markets, and bag snatching from motorcycles. Nobody walks unlit districts at night.

The "friend" and the invitation. A West African classic: an introduction in the street, a conversation about your country, an invitation to meet the family or attend a "ceremony", and then a request for money. Declining is fine.

Online schemes. Ghana is known as a centre for romance fraud and "Nigerian" schemes. If an acquaintance began online and ends with a request for a transfer, that is what it is.

Taxis. No meters; prices are agreed. Bolt and Uber operate in Accra and Kumasi, cheaper and more reliable.

"Guides" at Cape Coast and Elmina. Licensed guides work at the forts and the tour is included in the ticket. Street offers mean paying twice.

Currency exchange. Use licensed bureaux, where rates are fine.

Drugs. The law is strict, and Accra airport functions as a transit hub with thorough screening. Never carry anyone else's belongings.

Same-sex relations are criminalised, and public attitudes are extremely conservative. The subject is sharply politicised.

Photography. Military installations, police, the airport and government buildings are off limits. Always ask people.

Drones. Registration with the civil aviation authority is required.

Slave trade forts. Cape Coast and Elmina are places of memory and should be treated accordingly. Photography in the dungeons is restricted.

Exports. Ivory and animal products are prohibited. Antiques require a permit.

Religion. The country is deeply religious, with Christianity and Islam coexisting. Respect for observances is expected.

Roads. Nobody drives between towns at night: no lighting, no markings, and livestock and pedestrians on the highway.

Yellow fever is compulsory. A certificate is required on entry and checked. Without it you will not be admitted.

Malaria. High risk nationwide year-round. Prophylaxis is essential, as are repellent and a net. This is not a trip where it can be skipped.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, meningococcus, rabies and polio are advised.

Water. Bottled or sachet water only.

Heat and humidity. Above 30°C year-round, with the harmattan bringing Saharan dust from December to February.

Healthcare. Accra has decent private clinics (Nyaho, Trust Hospital); the regions are weaker. Anything serious means evacuation to South Africa or Europe. Insurance with evacuation cover is essential.

The sea. The Atlantic coast is beautiful, but currents are strong and lifeguards are almost absent. Drownings occur.

Emergency numbers: 191 police, 193 ambulance, 112 unified.

Ghana is considered one of Africa's most stable democracies, and police are generally correct with tourists, though everyday corruption exists.

Traffic police. Highway checkpoints with document checks. Requests for "help" occur; calmly ask for an official report.

Tourist police. Operating in Accra and at the main sites.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates for insurers issued. English is official, so communication presents no difficulty.

Attitude to visitors. Ghana is known for hospitality and interest in a foreigner is sincere. Being called "obruni" is not an insult but simply "foreigner".

Accra at night. Jamestown, the areas around the markets and unlit districts are best avoided after dark. Osu and Airport Residential are calmer.

What actually matters. Ghana's main risks are malaria, roads and money-related fraud rather than assault.

Emergency number is 112.