Cairns

Cairns is a tropical city in the far north of the Australian state of Queensland, known above all as the departure point for two natural wonders on the UNESCO World Heritage list. From here travellers head out to sea for the Great Barrier Reef and inland into the ancient Daintree rainforest, which makes the city one of the leading ecotourism centres of the southern hemisphere.

The city and its climate

Cairns has a population of around 160,000. The city itself is modest: low-rise, with a long esplanade and the port from which the dive boats leave each morning. Its strength is what surrounds it. Cairns lies in the wet tropics, so it is warm all year. There are two seasons: the relatively dry and cool one (roughly May to October) and the hot, wet one with downpours and high humidity (November to April). It is in the wet season that box jellyfish appear along the shore, which makes swimming in the open sea dangerous.

The Great Barrier Reef

The largest coral ecosystem on the planet runs for almost 2,300 kilometres along the coast. Trips from Cairns go out to both the outer and inner reef, for certified divers and for beginners trying a first dive. Snorkelling tours need no preparation at all: a mask and snorkel are enough to see coral gardens, shoals of reef fish, turtles and rays. Full-day boat trips usually take in several sites and include equipment and lunch.

Islands and coast

• Green Island — a coral cay with genuine rainforest and a beach, the closest to the city; short ferries run out to it.
• The Low Isles — calm shallows, good for families and for a first try at snorkelling.
• Palm Cove — a quiet resort village north of Cairns with a palm-lined esplanade.
• Cape Tribulation — a remote headland where the rainforest comes down to the reef; a rare place where two World Heritage sites meet.

Rainforest and mountains

The Daintree rainforest is considered one of the oldest on earth, its age estimated at around 170 million years. Relict plants survive here, along with a unique fauna including the flightless cassowary and marsupials. At Mossman Gorge, walks are led by Kuku Yalanji guides, who talk about traditional culture and the connection between people and country.

The mountain village of Kuranda above Cairns is known for its craft markets and its butterfly and bird parks. There are two scenic ways up: the historic Kuranda Scenic Railway through tunnels and past waterfalls, or the Skyrail cableway, gliding directly over the forest canopy. Barron Gorge and its powerful falls are nearby.

In the city itself

The centre is compact and easily walked. The main promenade is the Cairns Esplanade, with its artificial swimming lagoon: since the sea is unsafe because of jellyfish, this open-air pool with sandy edges has become the place where residents and visitors alike relax. Cafés, picnic areas and evening markets run along the front.

Food

Local cooking draws on the tropics and the sea. The regional signature is barramundi, a large fish usually grilled. Fresh seafood appears constantly: prawns, mud crabs, oysters. Tropical fruit — mango, papaya, passion fruit — is available all year. Pan-Asian cooking is widely represented, reflecting how close South-East Asia is.

Practical information

Cairns International Airport takes flights from major Australian cities and from around the Asia-Pacific. Allow several days for the reef and the forests: a good four-day plan gives one day to a boat trip, a second to the Daintree and Cape Tribulation, a third to Kuranda and the mountains, and a fourth to the islands or the coast. When going out to sea, allow for the jellyfish season and use the protective stinger suits operators normally provide. The sun is fierce, so a hat, sunscreen and a supply of water are necessary.