Sydney

Sydney is the largest and oldest city in Australia, spread around the picturesque natural harbour of Port Jackson on the south-eastern coast of the continent. Founded in 1788 as the first British colony, today it is the financial, cultural and tourist capital of the country, with a population of around five million, where ultra-modern skyscrapers stand beside endless beaches and national parks.

History and general character

The city grew out of the convict settlement established by Captain Arthur Phillip's expedition at Sydney Cove — and it is here, in what is now The Rocks district, that the oldest cobbled lanes and stone houses of the colonial era survive. The Rocks is worth visiting for its museums, its Saturday craft market and its historic pubs. From here a panorama opens onto the metropolis's two great calling cards, the Opera House and the harbour bridge. The administrative and business centre (the CBD), with the Sydney Tower Eye and the Queen Victoria Building shopping gallery, is a few minutes' walk away.

Main sights

• The Sydney Opera House — the UNESCO-listed masterpiece by the Danish architect Jorn Utzon, opened in 1973. Its "sails" have become a symbol of Australia as a whole. Besides tours of the interior, opera, ballet and symphonic performances are staged here.
• The Harbour Bridge — the steel arch nicknamed by locals "the Coathanger", joining the centre to the north shore. The pedestrian walkway is free, and thrill-seekers climb right to the top of the arch on the BridgeClimb programme.
• Bondi Beach — the famous surf beach seven kilometres from the centre. The Bondi to Coogee coastal path starts here, running about six kilometres past bays, sea baths and rocky headlands.
• The Royal Botanic Garden — an extensive green space right by the harbour, with Mrs Macquarie's Point, from which you get the best shots of the Opera House and the bridge in a single frame.
• Taronga Zoo — the zoo on the north shore, with koalas, kangaroos and wombats and a panoramic view over the water; the easiest way there is by ferry.
• Manly — a welcoming beach town on the ocean side, reached by a scenic ferry from Circular Quay.
• Darling Harbour — a waterfront with the Sea Life aquarium, museums and restaurants.

Districts and atmosphere

Beyond the centre it is worth walking through the more characterful quarters. Surry Hills is famous for its coffee houses and boutiques, Newtown for street art, vintage shops and a wide range of food, and Glebe for its bookshops and weekend market. Lively Darlinghurst takes care of the nightlife; neighbouring Kings Cross was once its epicentre but has been far quieter since the lockout laws of 2014. This is where you feel that relaxed, welcoming atmosphere for which Sydneysiders are valued.

Food

The city's gastronomy is multinational thanks to powerful waves of immigration. Australians are proud of their coffee culture and consider the flat white a local invention. The classic breakfast is toast with Vegemite, and on the coast fish and chips and barbecues on the public grills in the parks are perennially popular. It is worth trying fresh seafood at the fish market, and Asian dishes in Chinatown. For cheap fruit and street food, look to Paddy's Markets.

Transport

The public network is unified by the Opal card — it works on the metro, suburban trains, buses, trams and ferries, with a daily cap on charges. The harbour ferries are both convenient transport and a full sightseeing trip with views of the shoreline. Much of the centre is walkable, and taxis and Uber work reliably.

Practical advice

• The best times to travel are autumn (March–May) and spring (September–November), when the heat eases and the beaches are not overcrowded. Summer (December–February) is hot and busy, winter (June–August) mild.
• The Australian sun is very strong: do not forget sunscreen, a hat and water.
• It is safer to swim between the red and yellow flags, where lifeguards are on duty — ocean currents can be treacherous.
• Over five days it makes sense to spread your effort: the centre and the harbour, the Bondi and Coogee beaches, the ferry trip to Manly, the zoo or the Botanic Garden, and an excursion to the Blue Mountains, a national park a couple of hours from the city.