Hurghada

Hurghada is Egypt's largest seaside resort, stretching almost fifty kilometres along the Red Sea coast in the Red Sea Governorate. Once a small fishing village, over recent decades it has become the country's main gateway for a beach holiday, where warm salt water, coral reefs and affordable all-inclusive hotels sit alongside an eastern flavour.

History and overview

The settlement grew up in the early twentieth century around oil operations, and tourism took off in the 1980s and 90s when the large hotel chains arrived. Today the city falls into several parts: the old fishing district of El Dahar with its authentic bazaar and mosques, central Sekalla with the port and busy streets, and a chain of resort zones running south as far as Sahl Hasheesh. The permanent population is over a quarter of a million, and considerably higher once seasonal visitors are counted.

The sea, the reefs and life underwater

Hurghada's great asset is its clear water and rich coral communities, considered among the most beginner-friendly in the world.

• Diving and snorkelling. There are dozens of dive sites of varying difficulty along the coast. The reefs off the Giftun islands are popular, along with rocky ridges covered in soft and hard corals, home to butterflyfish, clownfish, moray eels and rays — and, with luck, turtles and dolphins. A try-dive suits even complete beginners.
• The Giftun Islands. A protected marine area some ten kilometres offshore. Day trips by boat and yacht with stops for swimming and snorkelling are among the most common excursions.
• Seeing it without getting wet. The city aquarium and glass-bottomed boat trips show the underwater world to those who would rather stay on the surface.

Beaches and family holidays

The shoreline is almost entirely divided between hotels, each with its own stretch of loungers and parasols; there are municipal beaches too. Entry to the water is stony in places because the reef comes close in, so water shoes are useful. Many hotels have water parks, kids' clubs and organised entertainment, which makes Hurghada an easy destination with children.

Excursions and the surrounding area

• Desert safari. Trips by quad bike, buggy and 4×4 into the Arabian Desert, a visit to a Bedouin settlement, camel rides and stargazing far from the city lights.
• Luxor. A day trip by coach to the treasures of ancient Egypt: the Karnak and Luxor temples, the Valley of the Kings on the west bank of the Nile, and the Colossi of Memnon.
• Cairo and the pyramids. A longer expedition to the Giza pyramids, the Sphinx and the Egyptian Museum; the journey takes most of a day.
• Sea fishing and Dolphin House (Sha'ab El Erg). Dedicated tours to places where dolphins gather offshore.

Food

All-inclusive hotels lean on buffets with international menus. Outside the hotels it is worth trying the local cooking: koshari (rice, pasta and lentils with sauce), falafel (ta'ameya), shawarma and fresh flatbread, and grilled fish and seafood on the waterfront. Common drinks are strong black tea, hibiscus karkade and fragrant Turkish-style coffee.

Transport

The international airport is a few kilometres from the centre and takes both charter and scheduled flights. Cheap minibuses run within the city, along with taxis — agree the fare in advance, since meters are rarely used. Intercity coaches link Hurghada with Cairo, Luxor and other cities.

Practical advice

• Season. October to May is most comfortable; at the height of summer the heat reaches +40 °C and above, though the sea stays warm all year.
• Sun and water. Sunscreen, a hat and bottled water are essential.
• Money. The Egyptian pound is the currency, but dollars and euros are accepted almost everywhere; haggling is expected in the markets.
• Respect for local custom. Away from beaches and hotels, modest dress is appreciated, especially at mosques and in the old town.
• How long to allow. About a week lets you combine the beach, diving and one or two longer excursions without rushing.