Los Angeles

Los Angeles is the largest city in California and the second most populous in the United States, spread between the Pacific and the San Gabriel Mountains. It is the world capital of cinema and a centre of jazz, surfing and street culture, where the metropolis breaks up into dozens of self-contained districts united only by the sun and the endless palms.

General character and history

The city was founded by the Spanish in 1781 as a small settlement with a long name, El Pueblo de Nuestra Senora la Reina de los Angeles — "the town of Our Lady, Queen of the Angels". Hence the nickname City of Angels. For a long time this was a Mexican province; the territory became part of the United States in 1848. Explosive growth began at the turn of the 20th century thanks to oil, the railways and the move of the film studios from New York to the sunny west coast. By the middle of the 20th century the metropolitan area had become one of the main economic centres of the planet. The metropolis stretches almost 100 km, so there is no single centre here — life is distributed among many separate nodes.

Districts

• Downtown — the business core, with skyscrapers, the Walt Disney Concert Hall by Frank Gehry, the historic Grand Central Market and the Arts District.
• Hollywood — the Walk of Fame with its named stars, the Dolby Theatre (where the Oscars are presented) and Grauman's Chinese Theatre.
• Beverly Hills and Rodeo Drive — the symbol of luxury, and the mansions of film stars.
• Santa Monica and Venice — beach bohemia, boardwalks and cycle paths.
• Little Tokyo, Koreatown, Chinatown — ethnic quarters reflecting the varied make-up of the population.
• Pasadena — historic architecture and the famous Rose Parade on New Year's Day.

Sights and museums

Beyond the Hollywood sign, the Griffith Observatory and the Getty Center, the The Broad stands out — a museum of contemporary art with free entry and Yayoi Kusama's Infinity Room. The Natural History Museum introduces the dinosaurs and the history of the region. For families the main goal is Disneyland in Anaheim, the first Disney park in the world, opened in 1955, along with the neighbouring Disney California Adventure. Anyone interested in science will enjoy the California Science Center, where the real space shuttle Endeavour is on display.

Culture

Los Angeles is the heart of the film industry: Universal, Warner Bros., Paramount and Sony all work here. The city gave the world gangsta rap and surf rock, and holds recording studios and legendary concert venues. The major sports teams are the Lakers and Clippers in basketball and the Dodgers in baseball. Film premieres and music festivals take place every year, and the metropolis will host the Summer Olympic Games in 2028.

Food

The food reflects the city's many nationalities: Mexican tacos and burritos, Korean barbecue in Koreatown, Japanese sushi and ramen, Vietnamese pho, Armenian baking in Glendale. Food trucks are a culture of their own, among which the Korean-Mexican fusion became famous. Among local chains, the burger joints and fast-food brands have cult status, and the farmers' markets offer avocados, citrus and strawberries all year round.

Practicalities

• When to go. The climate is Mediterranean: dry hot summers and mild winters. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable; the ocean is cool even in summer.
• Transport. Getting around without a car is difficult because of the distances; car hire and taxi apps are the norm. Metro Rail and buses exist, but do not cover the whole city, and jams on the freeways are a constant.
• Safety. As in any large city, how comfortable an area feels depends strongly on the district; in the evening it is worth being more attentive in parts of Downtown.
• How long to allow. About five days is best: a day for Hollywood and the observatory, a day for museums, a day for the beaches of Santa Monica and Venice, a day for Malibu and the coast, and one more for the theme parks or the Getty Center.

A five-day route

1. Downtown, Grand Central Market and The Broad.
2. Hollywood, the Walk of Fame, the Griffith Observatory and the Hollywood sign.
3. Santa Monica Pier, Venice Beach and the boardwalk.
4. Malibu, Zuma Beach and the scenic highway along the ocean.
5. Disneyland or Universal Studios, whichever you prefer.

Los Angeles does not reveal itself at once — it rewards those prepared to drive, to try things and to switch between the worlds inside a single city.