Queenstown

Queenstown is a resort town in the south-west of New Zealand's South Island, spread along the shore of winding Lake Wakatipu. Despite a modest permanent population of around 30,000, it has earned a reputation as the adventure capital of the world: commercial bungee jumping was invented here, and the surrounding mountains, rivers and fiords draw people for active holidays all year.

History and character

The settlement grew during the gold rush of the 1860s, when prospectors poured into the valley of the Shotover, nicknamed the richest gold-bearing river in the world. Legend has it that the beauty of the bay led the first settlers to say the place was "fit for a queen" — hence the name. After the diggings were exhausted the town turned to tourism, and the decisive year was 1988, when the entrepreneur AJ Hackett opened the world's first commercial bungee jump on the Kawarau Bridge. The extreme sports industry has defined Queenstown's character ever since.

The town centre is compact: a waterfront, a pedestrian promenade by Steamer Wharf, and narrow streets of cafés and outdoor gear. Above it all rises the jagged ridge of The Remarkables, whose reflection in the lake has become the emblem of the region.

Adventure

• Bungee jumping. The classic is the Kawarau Bridge (43 metres) above the turquoise river. For the boldest there is the Nevis jump in its canyon, at 134 metres one of the highest in Australasia.
• Jet boats. The Shotover Jet tears through shallow canyons, throwing spectacular turns within centimetres of the rock.
• The air. Skydiving from several thousand metres, and paragliding from Bob's Peak, open up the lake and the Southern Alps.
• Water and slopes. Rafting the turbulent Shotover, kayaking, and in winter skiing and snowboarding.

What to see

• Skyline Queenstown — the gondola up to the viewing platform on Bob's Peak, with the whole town, the lake and The Remarkables in view. A winding luge track runs down from the top.
• Lake Wakatipu — the country's third-largest lake, drawn out in a zigzag for almost 80 kilometres. The restored steamship TSS Earnslaw, launched in 1912, carries passengers across it to Walter Peak farm.
• Glenorchy — a village at the head of the lake, surrounded by untouched valleys made famous by the filming of The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit. The great walking routes start here, including the Routeburn Track.
• Arrowtown — a former gold-mining settlement with 19th-century wooden facades intact and the remains of the Chinese miners' quarter; it is at its finest in autumn, when the foliage blazes gold.
• Milford Sound — the jewel of Fiordland National Park, on the World Heritage list. Sheer cliffs, waterfalls and fur seals; long day trips run out here with a cruise on the fiord.

Ski fields

In winter (June to September) Queenstown becomes New Zealand's leading ski centre. Two fields are half an hour away: Coronet Peak, with runs of varying difficulty and night skiing, and The Remarkables, with broad slopes suited to families and beginners. Cardrona and Treble Cone lie further out.

Food and wine

The Gibbston valley, 20 to 30 minutes away, is one of the southernmost wine regions on the planet, and its pinot noir is valued by connoisseurs worldwide. The cooking draws on fresh local produce: high-country lamb, salmon, seasonal vegetables. A local legend in its own right is the substantial Fergburger, which regularly draws a long queue. Mornings begin with a flat white, the New Zealand take on coffee with milk.

Practical information

About five days is the right length: enough for the town's activities, a run out to Glenorchy and Arrowtown, a wine tour and a full day for the road to Milford Sound. The international airport connects the town with Auckland, Christchurch and Australian cities. The best time depends on your aims: summer (December to February) is ideal for trekking and water sports, winter for skiing, and autumn brings the golden colours. Many activities are not cheap, so book the popular slots — jumps, cruises, lift passes — in advance.