Pattaya

Pattaya is the largest seaside resort on Thailand's eastern coast, on the Gulf of Thailand about 150 km south-east of Bangkok. Once a quiet fishing village, over half a century it has become one of the most recognisable beach centres in South-East Asia, combining family holidays, theme parks and a famous round-the-clock nightlife.

Overview and history

The permanent population of the city and its surroundings is around 320,000, but in the high season (November to February), counting visitors, the figure approaches a million. Administratively Pattaya lies in Chonburi province and holds special status as a self-governing city.

The resort's rise is tied to the Vietnam War: in the 1960s and 70s the bay became a rest and recreation spot for American servicemen from the nearby U-Tapao base. The entertainment infrastructure that grew up around that demand set the city's character for decades. From the 1980s Pattaya was built up rapidly with hotels, condominiums and shopping centres, becoming a "double city": by day a beach and park resort for families, by night an entertainment centre around Walking Street.

Beaches and islands

The shoreline curves along the bay:

• Pattaya Beach — the central city beach along Beach Road, conveniently placed but neither the cleanest nor the quietest.
• Jomtien Beach — a few kilometres south, long, roomy and more family-oriented, with plenty of cafés and less bustle.
• Wong Amat — a quiet district to the north, geared to a calmer stay.
• Ko Lan (Coral Island) — the main island beach trip, about 7 km offshore; the ferry takes around 30 minutes, a speedboat less. Tawaen, Samae and Nual are considered the best beaches, with clear water and snorkelling.
• Ko Samet — a more distant island in Rayong province with white sand, part of a national park; popular for one- and two-day trips in search of cleaner sea.

Sights

• The Sanctuary of Truth (Prasat Sut Ja-Tum) — a vast wooden temple-palace about 105 m high, under construction since 1981 without metal nails and covered in carvings drawn from Buddhist and Hindu mythology.
• Big Buddha Hill (Khao Phra Tamnak) — a hill between the centre and Jomtien with a gilded Buddha and viewpoints over the bay.
• Nong Nooch Tropical Garden — the country's largest botanical park, about 2.4 km², with a French garden, collections of orchids and palms, elephant shows and Thai dancing.
• Underwater World Pattaya — an aquarium with a glass tunnel, sharks, rays and a collection of the gulf's marine life.
• Pattaya Floating Market — a stylised floating market with Thai food, crafts and performances.
• Water parks and amusement parks — large water complexes, a dinosaur park, go-karting and family rides make Pattaya easy with children.

Entertainment, shopping and golf

The emblem of Pattaya at night is Walking Street, a pedestrian strip of bars, clubs, seafood restaurants and cabarets. A calling card of its own is the ladyboy cabaret, with elaborate costumed productions. For shopping there are large centres: Terminal 21, styled as an airport with themed floors, Central Pattaya, and outlet malls. The surrounding area is known for golf — several dozen courses lie within an hour's drive.

Food

Pattaya's cooking is above all the fresh seafood of the Gulf of Thailand: prawns, crab, mussels, squid and fish, grilled or in a spicy sauce. Classic Thai dishes are everywhere — tom yum, tom kha, pad thai, green and red curry, and rice and noodles from street stalls. Alongside Thai food the city has a wide choice of international restaurants, reflecting the mix of visitors.

Practical information

From Bangkok, Pattaya is an easy 2–2.5 hours by motorway on a bus, minivan or taxi; the nearest international airport is U-Tapao, while the larger Suvarnabhumi has direct transfers to the resort. Within the city the popular transport is the songthaew (shared pickup) running along the main streets, plus taxis and motorbikes.

The best time to visit is the cool dry season from November to February. The hot period runs from March to May, and the rains come in summer and early autumn, though showers are usually brief.

About four days is enough for Pattaya: a day for the city beaches and Walking Street in the evening, a day for a boat trip to Ko Lan or Ko Samet, a day for the temples, Nong Nooch and the Sanctuary of Truth, and one more for the aquarium, water parks and shopping.