Quba

A northern mountain town in Azerbaijan at the foot of the Greater Caucasus — a quiet alternative to noisy Baku, visited for the cool air, the carpets and the extraordinary mountain villages. One day here is possible, but allow a day and a half to two if you want to reach Khinalig.

What is actually worth seeing

The town itself is small, around 35,000 people, and the main interest lies not in it but around it. Set your priorities: you cannot cover everything in one day.

• Red Town (Qirmizi Qasaba) — the reason to come. Across the Gudialchay river from central Quba lies a settlement of Mountain Jews, one of the few intact Jewish shtetls surviving outside Israel. Nineteenth-century houses, synagogues, its own way of life. It is a 15–20 minute walk over the bridge from the centre, and it is worth catching it on a working day rather than in "museum" silence.
• Khinalig — an ancient village at around 2,350 m with a language of its own and houses stacked in layers up the slope. It is UNESCO-listed. The catch is the road: the last section needs a four-wheel drive, and an ordinary car will not make it. Half a day minimum there and back, so it is either Khinalig or everything else.
• The Afurja waterfall and the Tengealti gorge — the landscape south of town, near the villages of the same names. Afurja drops some 75 m into the canyon of the Velvelichay; Tengealti is a narrow gorge with suspension bridges, good for a short walk. Best combined into one trip by car; allow about an hour each way.
• The museum of history and local lore, in a former khan's residence — carpets, weapons, silverwork. The quick option in town if you have no time for the longer excursions.

Quba is a centre of carpet weaving, and the Quba type of carpet is known to collectors. If that interests you, look at carpets not only in the museum but in the workshops where they are actually woven.

Getting there and getting around

There is no airport in Quba; the point of entry is Baku (GYD), 170 km away.

• Minibus from Baku's bus station is the cheapest way, about 3 hours on the road. They run regularly through the day.
• Taxi or private transfer from Baku costs several times more, but is convenient with a group or with luggage.
• Hiring a car in Baku is the most flexible option. The natural sights are scattered, there is almost no public transport to them, and a taxi for a whole day is not cheap. The Baku–Quba road is good.

Within town everything is compact and the centre is walkable. For Khinalig, hire a driver-guide with a four-wheel drive in Quba itself — it is a standard service, arranged locally or in advance through your guesthouse.

Where to stay and how long

It makes sense to stay in central Quba: from there it is walking distance to Red Town, the museum, the market and the tea houses. There are guesthouses and small hotels, and prices are well below Baku's.

• One day — enough for the town, Red Town and one natural sight. Khinalig does not fit into that plan.
• Two days — comfortable: the first for Khinalig, the second for the town and its surroundings.

When to go

Summer in Quba runs 5–7 degrees cooler than Baku, which makes it a popular escape from the heat among Azerbaijanis themselves. The best windows:

• April–May — the apple orchards in blossom, everything green.
• September–October — the apple harvest, clear weather, comfortable in the mountains.

In winter the roads to the high villages, Khinalig included, can be closed by snow — check before setting off.

Food and money

The cooking is Azerbaijani with a highland accent: Quba dolma, qutab, plov with green peas. The speciality is jam made from rose petals and green walnuts, which is also the edible souvenir to take home. Tea is served from a samovar.

It feels cheap by European standards and noticeably cheaper than touristy Baku. Lunch in a chaikhana costs very little and a full restaurant dinner is moderate. The market in the centre is good for fruit, nuts, local jam and honey.

Where to save:

• Eat in the tea houses and at the market rather than in "tourist" restaurants.
• Take the minibus rather than a taxi on the Baku–Quba run.
• For the jeep to Khinalig, find others to share with and split the cost of the vehicle.

Common mistakes

• Trying to fit Khinalig into a day trip — it will not work; the road eats almost the whole day.
• Driving to Khinalig in an ordinary car — you will be turned back on the climb; you need a four-wheel drive.
• Counting on public transport to the waterfalls and gorges — there is virtually none, so plan a car or a taxi for the day.
• Underestimating mountain weather — it is cool and changeable up there even in summer, so bring a windproof layer.