Safety in Yemen

The island: Socotra remains a quiet haven and is essentially untouched by the mainland conflict. Local people are extremely peaceable, but a conservative dress code and restrained behaviour are expected of you in return.

The mainland: The situation there remains critical because of the ongoing civil war and terrorist attacks. Travelling alone through mainland provinces carries a serious risk of being caught in fighting or abducted. Read your own government's travel advisory carefully before making any plans.

Medical care: The island has one basic hospital in Hadibo where what doctors can do is very limited. Carry a substantial personal kit, including strong antibiotics, antiseptics and something for food poisoning.

Sun and water: Out in the landscape the real dangers are rapid dehydration and severe sunburn. Use factor 50, wear long sleeves and drink only sealed bottled water.

Animals: There are no large predators on Socotra, but scorpions hide among rocks and under tents. Always shake out your boots before putting them on and never walk barefoot through scrub at dusk.

After dark: Hadibo has almost no street lighting and the roads are full of deep ruts. Carry a strong torch if you move around town at night so you do not fall into a hole.

Yemen is enduring one of the world's gravest humanitarian crises and remains in a continuing armed conflict. No government recommends travel there, and most explicitly urge citizens not to go and to leave.

What defines the situation. The country is divided between opposing sides, with fighting and strikes continuing. Kidnapping of foreigners for ransom is a systemic practice rather than an exception. Armed groups operate, including some linked to international terrorist organisations.

Humanitarian crisis. A large share of the population depends on food aid. Infrastructure is destroyed, electricity and water are limited, and fuel is short.

Socotra is a separate case. The island is geographically remote from the mainland fighting and trips are organised there via the UAE. That does not make Yemen safe: air links are unreliable, evacuation in an emergency is extremely difficult, and insurance does not apply. People do go, but it is a considered risk rather than ordinary tourism.

Insurance. No standard policy covers Yemen.

The legal environment. There is no single enforcement system: different areas are run by different de facto authorities with their own rules. Judicial guarantees in the ordinary sense do not exist.

Photography. Military installations, checkpoints, armed personnel, ports and airports are categorically off limits. This is one of the main causes of detention.

Movement. Checkpoints of various forces operate between areas. Independent travel around the country is not possible.

Dress and conduct. Yemen is deeply conservative. Women need fully covering dress including a headscarf. Alcohol is prohibited entirely.

Drugs. The law is severe. Worth knowing separately about qat, the local stimulant plant, whose use in Yemen is universal and lawful — but exporting it is prohibited in most countries.

Mines. Yemen is among the world's most heavily mined countries as a result of the conflict. Do not leave the roads.

Drones. Prohibited, and using one in a conflict zone is dangerous in itself.

The healthcare system is close to collapse. Hospitals function partially, medicines and equipment are short, and some facilities are damaged. Obtaining medical care in the country is extremely difficult.

Epidemics. Yemen suffered the largest cholera outbreaks in modern history. Measles, diphtheria, malaria, dengue and chikungunya are recorded. A full vaccination set is needed, arranged in advance.

Water. Unsafe everywhere, with supply disrupted.

Hunger. Food security in the country is critical, which affects the availability of ordinary provisions too.

Evacuation. Effectively impossible by standard means: airspace is restricted and commercial flights are almost nonexistent.

Climate. The highlands around Sanaa sit at 2,200 metres and are cool; the Red Sea coast and Hadhramaut are extremely hot and humid. Socotra has its own monsoon season from May to September when ferries and flights stop.

Medicines. Bring everything with a large surplus.

Yemen sits at the very bottom of global safety rankings.

Who controls the ground. Different regions are held by different forces. This is not one country with one authority, and local rules differ radically.

Kidnapping. The main risk to a foreigner. Kidnapping foreigners has historically been an established practice in Yemen, including as a means of leverage and ransom. International organisations work there under extremely strict protocols with armed escorts.

There is no consular assistance. Virtually all countries have closed their embassies in Sanaa. There is nobody to help a detained or kidnapped citizen.

Socotra. Administratively part of Yemen, but with minimal practical connection to the mainland. Violent crime on the island is low, but the complete absence of healthcare and unreliable air links make any problem serious.

The honest conclusion: mainland Yemen is not a place to travel to under any circumstances. Socotra is a considered risk for prepared travellers, not a tourist destination.