Safety in Cameroon

The general picture: The country requires constant alertness and caution with strangers. Avoid the English-speaking provinces in the west and the areas along the northern borders, where the situation is tense, and read your own government's travel advisory before you book.

In the cities: Watch for motorbike thieves and pickpockets, particularly wherever crowds gather. After dark, do not walk unfamiliar streets on foot; use official taxis instead.

Checkpoints: Document checks by police or military patrols are frequent on intercity roads. Stay polite, show no irritation and always carry a copy of your passport with a valid visa.

Photography: Photographing government buildings, bridges, military sites and anyone in uniform is strictly forbidden. Even an innocent shot near a police station can end with a confiscated camera and a fine.

Health: Malaria is a serious threat throughout the country all year round. Use a strong repellent, cover up in the evening and sleep under a net without exceptions.

Scams: Ignore the insistent airport fixers who offer to carry your bag or arrange a transfer. Agree the price of any service clearly before the person begins doing it.

Water: Tap water in the cities is unsafe even for rinsing your mouth when brushing your teeth. Stick to bottled drinks and make sure the seal is broken in front of you in cafes and restaurants.

Cameroon is called "Africa in miniature" for its range of landscapes. The country receives few tourists and conditions vary greatly by region.

Douala and Yaoundé. Pickpockets, bag snatching and theft from cars. Douala is considered less calm. Nobody walks at night.

Taxis. Shared yellow taxis pick up other passengers — a risk for a foreigner. Take the whole car or book through a hotel.

Checkpoints and "formalities". The main scheme: demands to pay for a missing document. Keep your passport, visa and copies in order.

"Guides" in Kribi and on Mount Cameroon. The volcano ascent is arranged through guides in Buea. Check the organisation and equipment.

Currency exchange. The CFA franc is pegged to the euro. Change at banks.

Cash. Cards work on a limited basis. Bring euros.

The Anglophone regions. The North-West and South-West regions are gripped by conflict between separatists and government forces. Clashes and kidnappings occur, and "ghost town" Mondays shut everything down on separatist orders. People do not go there.

The Far North. The area by Lake Chad is affected by armed group activity. People do not go there.

The east. The border area with the CAR sees armed groups and refugees.

Photography. Military installations, police, the presidential palace, airports and bridges are categorically off limits. This is the commonest cause of foreigners' detention in Cameroon.

Drones. Prohibited without permission.

Same-sex relations are criminalised and the law is enforced.

Wildlife. Exporting ivory is prohibited.

Roads. Nobody drives between cities at night.

Yellow fever is compulsory. A certificate is required on entry.

Malaria. Very high risk year-round. Prophylaxis is unconditionally essential.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, meningococcus (the north lies in the meningitis belt), rabies, polio and cholera.

Cholera. Outbreaks occur regularly, especially in the north.

Water. Bottled only.

The sea. Kribi and Limbe have strong currents and no lifeguards.

Mount Cameroon. 4,095 metres and a popular ascent. The weather turns sharply and the volcano is active. Guided only.

Healthcare. Douala and Yaoundé have acceptable clinics. The regions are weak. Anything serious means evacuation to France or South Africa. Insurance with evacuation cover is essential.

Emergency numbers: 117 police, 119 ambulance.

Cameroon ranks low on the Corruption Perceptions Index and roadside extortion is widespread.

Checkpoints. Very numerous, especially between cities. Document checks are routine and requests for "help" ordinary. Keep documents in perfect order and small notes separate.

Photography and the police. The commonest conflict. Foreigners have been detained over photographs of ordinary buildings.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates issued; the process is slow. The languages are French and English.

Regions. The difference is enormous: Yaoundé, Douala, Kribi and the West region with Foumban are accessible. The North-West, South-West, Far North and eastern border areas are not.

Consular assistance. Present, but capacity in the conflict regions is limited.

What actually matters. In Cameroon the key is understanding the geography: the country divides into accessible and inaccessible parts, and the difference is fundamental.

Emergency number is 117.