Nizhny Novgorod

The confluence of two rivers, a kremlin on a steep hill and one of the most atmospheric pedestrian streets in the country — Nizhny Novgorod is easily done over a weekend, but it rewards you with views that are the real reason to come. The historic part is compact, so two days are enough to catch the essentials without rushing.

Why come, and what is genuinely worth seeing

• The Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin — a kremlin is the fortified citadel of an old Russian town, and this one is not a museum behind a fence but the living centre of the city, with the regional administration inside. The main things here are the walls and towers on the hill and the view from them over the Volga and the Strelka. You can walk along the wall (seasonally), which beats any viewing platform.
• The Strelka — the spit where the Oka flows into the Volga. For the panorama, climb the Chkalov Stairs from the embankment: a long cascade of steps, with the spread of the rivers opening up at the top. The filigree metal warehouse pavilions on the Strelka itself are unexpectedly photogenic industrial classics of the 19th century.
• Bolshaya Pokrovskaya — the main pedestrian street running from Minin Square to Gorky Square. Merchant mansions, street musicians, cafés and all the evening life. Walking its full length is compulsory.
• The cable car across the Volga to Bor — not a transport formality but an attraction. The cabins travel above the river and the views from above are excellent. There is not much to see in Bor itself — ride there and back for the journey.
• The Upper Volga embankment — a promenade along the bluff with a view of the river, quieter and smarter than Pokrovskaya.

Getting there and getting around

Strigino Airport is linked to the centre by public transport; from Moscow the most convenient option is the fast train, taking a few hours, with the station on the lower side of the river.

An important feature of the city: it is divided by the Oka into an upper (historic) and a lower (across-the-river, station) part. The metro and surface transport run between them, and there are bridges. Keep this in mind when choosing accommodation — almost everything of interest is up top.

• On foot — the historic centre is compact, and the kremlin, Pokrovskaya and the embankments are all walkable.
• The metro — it exists, but is geared to the far side of the river; there are few stations in the upper city, and a visitor mainly needs it to cross from the station.
• Surface transport — buses and shared minibuses cover everything, and card payment usually works.

Where to stay

Best is in the upper city, near Bolshaya Pokrovskaya or Minin Square. From here it is walkable to the kremlin, the embankments and the evening cafés, and you will not have to cross the river each time.

Staying by the station (the far side) is cheaper, but you end up away from everything of interest and spend time travelling. It is only justified for early trains.

How many days, and when to go

Two days is the working minimum. A rough plan:

• Day 1: the kremlin and its walls, Minin Square, the whole of Bolshaya Pokrovskaya down to Gorky Square and back, and the embankment in the evening.
• Day 2: the Chkalov Stairs and the Strelka, the cable car across the Volga, the Upper Volga embankment.

The best time is late spring, summer and golden autumn: the high water and the views work at full strength. Winter is beautiful, but the wind-exposed embankments and staircases in the cold are an ordeal, and the cable car can be stopped in high wind.

Food and money

Nizhny Novgorod feels cheaper than Moscow and St Petersburg. Prices on Bolshaya Pokrovskaya are touristy, but walk a couple of blocks away and lunch in an ordinary café or canteen costs noticeably less.

• Look for places serving local Volga fish and fruit liqueurs — that is the local theme.
• Coffee shops and bars cluster around Pokrovskaya and in the side streets of the upper city.
• Saving: eat lunch in canteens and chain cafés, and treat dinner with a river view as a one-off pleasure rather than the rule.

Common mistakes

• Confusing the upper and lower city. Booking somewhere "cheap by the station" and then spending half the day crossing the bridge is the classic error. Check which side of the Oka your accommodation is on.
• Coming for the cable car in bad weather. It can be closed in wind and snow — keep it as a flexible item rather than the anchor of the day.
• Only seeing the kremlin from outside. The point is to climb onto the walls and walk them for the panorama, not to walk around them.
• Underestimating the terrain. The upper city stands on hills, and the descents to the water really are staircases and steep slopes. Bring comfortable shoes.
• Treating the Strelka as "five minutes". It is a fair walk to the confluence itself and the warehouses; allow time and do not leave it until just before your train.