Dilijan

Dilijan is often called "the Armenian Switzerland", and it is not an empty epithet: hairpin roads through beech forest, mist in the gorges and cool air after the heat of Yerevan genuinely change the mood of a trip. The town is small and unhurried, but in two days you can easily reach several monasteries and lakes from here — an ideal base for anyone who wants forest, trekking and quiet.

Why come, and for how long

Allow two days: one for the town and the nearer monasteries, the second for trekking in the national park or a trip to the lakes. If you have come for the forest and the walking, add a third — the routes vary in length and you cannot cover them in one go.

Dilijan works well as a breather between Yerevan and Sevan, or as a slow trip in its own right. Do not expect nightlife or a wide choice of cafés: this is about landscape, air and mineral water, not urban entertainment.

What is worth seeing

• Sharambeyan Street — a short restored nineteenth-century lane with workshops, potters and a museum. An hour covers it, but it is the only "historic" fragment of the town, atmospheric and a convenient place to start.
• Haghartsin monastery (11th–13th centuries) — the most striking in the district, standing in the forest and restored with funding from the UAE. It is a must; go in the morning, before the tour coaches.
• Goshavank (12th century, about 20 km away) — founded by Mkhitar Gosh, the compiler of the medieval Armenian law code. The complex is more austere than Haghartsin, but authentic and almost empty.
• Dilijan National Park — relict yew groves and marked trails of every grade, from easy strolls to walks of several hours. This is the core of the trip for anyone coming for the outdoors.
• Lake Parz (about 10 km) — a small forest lake with a zipline, boats and picnic spots. It gets busy; nearby Lake Gosh is worth the extra walk for the quiet.

Armenian monasteries look alike from the outside, so do not try to see them all — pick Haghartsin plus one neighbour, or by evening they will blur into one.

Getting there and getting around

There is no airport; the nearest is Yerevan (EVN), about 100 km away. From Yerevan:

• Minibus — roughly 2 hours and the cheapest way. It leaves from the bus station; on popular routes come early, as seats are not reserved.
• Taxi or transfer — dearer, but it saves time and works well for two or three people; you can agree on stops along the way.
• Car hire in Yerevan — the best option if you plan the lakes, Goshavank and Sevan. The roads are decent, but the mountain hairpins and fog call for care; fill up in advance, as petrol stations are thin on the ground in the countryside.

In town everything is close and the centre is walkable. But there is almost no public transport to the park, the monasteries and the lakes: budget for a taxi, a hire car or an organised outing. Agreeing a half-day with a driver, waiting time included, is cheaper and simpler than trying to find a lift back out of the forest.

Where to stay

Guesthouses and small hotels are scattered across the slopes around the centre. Stay near Sharambeyan and the main street if you want to walk; the places "in the forest" are prettier but will tie you to taxis without a car. A guesthouse with a home-cooked dinner is the typical and the best format: the food is proper home cooking and the hosts will point you to the trails.

Food and money

The cooking is Armenian with a Tavush accent: kchuch (a pot stew), khash, harissa, tzhvzhik, trout from the mountain rivers, Ijevan honey, mulberry vodka. Trout and kchuch are what to go into a local café for.

Dilijan feels inexpensive: lunch in a café comes to a few dollars, dinner in a guesthouse costs noticeably more but is still reasonable. Taxis around town are trivial and the minibus from Yerevan is cheap. Keep cash on you: guesthouses and drivers do not always take cards, and while there are ATMs, you should not count on them out in the countryside.

When to go, and what to bear in mind

The best time is from late spring to early autumn: green forest, open trails and comfortable coolness while Yerevan bakes. The golden autumn is especially beautiful. Winter is quiet, some routes and sights lose their point, and the weather makes the roads harder.

Practical details:

• It is cooler and damper in the mountains than in the capital — bring a windproof layer and proper shoes even in summer.
• Mobile coverage drops out in the forest; download offline maps in advance.
• Do not head onto the trails alone without spare water and a clear idea of your turnaround time — the routes are longer than they look on the map.
• Do not try to cram Haghartsin, Goshavank, both lakes and a proper trek into one day; spread it over two.