Mary

Mary is a dusty, low-rise town in the south-eastern corner of Turkmenistan that will surprise nobody on its own merits, but serves as a convenient base for one of the great archaeological sites of Central Asia. Ancient Merv, just next door, is why people come: the town itself is a bed, a station, a museum and a market, and everything of interest starts outside it.

Why come, and how long for

Two days is comfortably enough. The logic is simple: one full day for Merv, which is the whole reason for getting here at all, and a second for the museum, the bazaar and, if you have the energy and the necessary permissions, the long run out to Gonur Depe. If time is tight you can see Merv in half a day, but you will miss the most atmospheric part of it — the distances between the "cities" of the complex, and the slowness with which the whole thing unfolds in the desert haze.

The key planning fact: Turkmenistan operates a strict visa regime. For most travellers the visa comes through a letter of invitation and effectively presupposes a tour with a licensed guide. Fully independent backpacking entry is the exception rather than the rule here — check this well in advance and build it into the budget. A transit visa is shorter and more rigid about your route.

Getting there and getting around

• To Mary. There is an airport with domestic flights from Ashgabat, which is the quickest option. The alternatives are the train or a minibus or shared taxi along the highway; the desert road is long but cheap.
• To Merv. The site is about 30 km away, next to the small town of Bayramaly. There is essentially no public transport to the ruins — take a taxi for the day with waiting time, or a car with a driver. Agree the price in advance and for the whole trip, not by the meter.
• Inside Merv. The area is enormous: the complex is made up of five adjoining walled cities of different periods, and the monuments are kilometres apart. Covering it all on foot in a day is unrealistic and dangerous in the heat; the sensible approach is a car that shuttles you from point to point, with short stretches on foot.

What is actually worth seeing

Pick out the highlights from the whole complex, or you will bog down.

• The Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar — the only large building to have come down almost intact. Its massive dome is visible from a long way off and serves as a landmark; it is a good place to start.
• Sultan Kala — the heart of medieval Merv, the twelfth-century city that the Mongols wiped out in 1221. Today it is ramparts and slumped walls, but the scale still reads.
• Gyaur Kala — an older layer, with the remains of a Buddhist stupa: rare physical evidence of Buddhism in these parts.
• Kyz Kala (Greater and Lesser) — the "maidens' castles", with their distinctive corrugated walls. The most photogenic and unusual architecture on the whole site.
• Erk Kala — the oldest core, an earthen citadel; interesting as a starting point in time rather than as a picture.

In Mary itself two things are essential: the regional history museum, which holds finds from Merv and the surrounding area — worth visiting before the ruins so that you understand what you are looking at — and the central bazaar, full of local life, melons, spices and carpets.

Gonur Depe (about 60 km north, a Bronze Age settlement) is for those who want more: the road runs on dirt tracks, you can only get there with a guide and transport, and it is a few hours each way.

Practicalities: heat, water, money

• When to go. Spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October) are the only comfortable windows. In summer the Karakum passes 40°C and shadeless ruins become an ordeal; winter is cold and windy.
• At the ruins. Bring more water than you think you need, plus a hat and sun protection — there is nowhere to buy any of it. Wear closed shoes: dust, thorns and uneven ground.
• Cash. Count on Turkmen manat in cash; foreign bank cards barely work and cash machines are unreliable for visitors. Change money in advance and keep small notes.
• Prices. Food, transport and the market all feel cheap. The main expense is not the town but the visa, the guide and the logistics of moving around the country.

Food

The cooking is dense and meaty: plov, kebabs, manti, lagman and samsa from the tandoor, with fresh flatbread. In summer Mary is melon country, and the local melons, reckoned among the best in the region, cost next to nothing at the bazaar. Look for chaikhanas and the stalls by the market rather than tourist places — cheaper and better. Tea, usually green, is drunk constantly and in quantity; it is a normal part of any meal.

Common mistakes

• Travelling without the visa question settled in advance: you may simply not get into the country.
• Trying to walk the whole of Merv: you will lose the day and overheat.
• Putting Gonur Depe on the same day as Merv — there is not enough time.
• Relying on cards and mobile data the way you would at home: carry cash and offline maps, as coverage is patchy.