Safety in Djibouti

Overall: The country is one of the calmer places in the region, partly because of the foreign military bases. Serious crime against visitors is rare.

Heat: This is your main risk. Summer temperatures pass forty degrees easily and heatstroke arrives fast, so wear a hat and drink continually.

Borders: Avoid the frontier zones with Eritrea and northern Somalia entirely. Conditions there can be unstable and some ground remains mined.

At night: In the capital, do not walk alone through the dark lanes of the African quarter. Stick to the busy waterfront and use official taxis.

Photography: Photographing military installations, ports and government buildings is firmly prohibited and leads to detention and confiscated equipment.

Insurance: Buy a policy that covers transport to hospitals in another country. Local medicine is limited and complex cases are typically flown to Dubai.

Wildlife: Watch for sea urchins and strong currents when swimming in the gulf. In the desert, shake out your boots before putting them on because of scorpions.

Djibouti is a small country on the Horn of Africa, an important port and the site of foreign military bases. Street crime is moderate.

Djibouti City. Pickpockets around Le Plateau and at the market. Walking at night is best avoided.

Taxis. No meters; agree the price. Foreigners are quoted more.

Prices. Djibouti is expensive: almost everything is imported and the military presence keeps prices high.

Excursions. Lake Assal, Africa's lowest point; Lake Abbe with its limestone chimneys; and swimming with whale sharks in the Gulf of Tadjoura. Arranged through operators with widely varying prices. Check whether transport and water are included.

Khat. Consumption is universal, and half the country is occupied with it after midday. Exporting it is prohibited in most countries.

Currency exchange. The Djibouti franc is pegged to the dollar. Change at banks.

Photography. Military installations and bases are categorically off limits, and Djibouti has many: French, American, Chinese and Japanese. So are the port, airport and government buildings. This is the commonest cause of detention.

Drones. Prohibited without permission.

The Eritrean and Somali borders. Higher-risk zones; travel there is not advised.

Mines. The areas bordering Eritrea retain the consequences of conflict.

Drugs. The law is strict, while khat is legal.

Dress. The country is Muslim and modesty is appropriate.

Ramadan. Observed; no eating in public during daylight.

The desert. Trips to Lake Abbe and Lake Assal require four-wheel drive and an escort. Independent excursions are not the practice.

Heat is the defining factor. Djibouti is among the hottest countries in the world: summer passes 45°C at high coastal humidity. From June to August being outside during the day is dangerous. Trips are planned for November to March.

Dehydration. At Lake Assal, 155 metres below sea level, the heat is extreme and there is no shade at all. You need twice the water you expect.

Malaria. Moderate risk, higher in the rainy season. Prophylaxis is discussed for your route.

Vaccinations. Yellow fever from endemic countries, plus hepatitis A and B, typhoid, rabies and polio.

Water. Bottled only; water resources in the country are scarce.

The sea. The Gulf of Tadjoura is an excellent place to snorkel with whale sharks from November to February. Currents can be strong, and there is no hyperbaric chamber in the country.

Healthcare. Weak. Foreign contingents maintain military medical facilities, but access is restricted. Anything serious means evacuation to France or Ethiopia. Insurance is essential.

Emergency numbers: 17 police, 18 fire.

Djibouti sits mid-table in Africa on corruption, and police are generally correct with tourists.

Military presence. The foreign bases make the country one of the most heavily guarded in the region, which works in favour of general safety. But photographing them is categorically prohibited.

Checkpoints. These occur on the roads with document checks.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates issued. The languages are French and Arabic.

At night. Travel by car in Djibouti City.

Border areas. Conditions on the Eritrean and Somali frontiers require checking.

What actually matters. In Djibouti the danger comes from heat, dehydration and remoteness rather than from people — and from photographing the military installations, of which there are more than you would think.

Emergency number is 17.