Safety in Nauru

Crime: The crime rate is extremely low and everyone on the island knows everyone else by sight. You can walk around in the evening without worrying about robbery, though stray dogs in dark stretches deserve caution.

Natural hazards: The biggest threats are the fierce equatorial sun and razor-sharp coral. Burns happen fast, and cuts from rocks in the ocean heal slowly in this humidity.

Medical care: The single state hospital provides only the most basic treatment. Anything serious means waiting for an air ambulance, which runs to tens of thousands of dollars if you are uninsured, so proper travel insurance is not optional here.

The pinnacle fields: Walking in the island's interior demands real care, because the limestone columns crumble. The ground is unstable and knife-edged, so forget about open footwear.

Roads: Traffic keeps to the left, and although there are few cars, drivers can be unpredictable. Walking the island, always face oncoming traffic and stay as close to the verge as you can.

Hydration: In this heat dehydration arrives quickly. Carry a couple of litres of water at all times and never brush off the first signs of dizziness or sudden weakness on a walk.

Nauru is the world's third-smallest country by area and among the least visited. Tourism infrastructure is essentially absent.

What to understand. Nauru is not a destination in the ordinary sense: an island of twenty-one square kilometres with one main hotel, limited food choice, and an interior largely occupied by worked-out phosphate pits. People come for work or out of interest in unusual places.

Visas. Required by most nationalities and obtained in advance; the process is slow and refusals occur.

Flights. Nauru Airlines links the island with Brisbane, Fiji and neighbouring countries. Services are few, and a cancellation means several days of waiting.

Cash. The currency is the Australian dollar. Cards barely work and ATMs are essentially absent. Bring cash.

Taxis. Few; agree the price. The island's ring road takes half an hour to drive.

Photography. Government buildings, police, the airport and the refugee processing centre are categorically off limits. The centre is a politically sensitive subject and journalists have faced entry restrictions.

Journalism. Entering for journalistic purposes requires separate permission and is expensive. Formally a visa requirement, in practice a restriction.

The pits. The island's interior is worked-out phosphate land with sharp limestone pinnacles and holes. Walking there unaccompanied is dangerous.

Drugs. The law is strict.

Alcohol. Sold, but the community is small and conservative.

Land. Almost all land is in private family ownership. Access and photography require permission.

Dress. Modest dress is appropriate, with swimwear only on the beach.

Healthcare is the defining risk. The island hospital is basic and short of specialists and equipment. Anything serious means evacuation to Australia, dependent on the schedule of infrequent flights. Insurance with air evacuation is essential.

Population health. Nauru has among the world's highest rates of diabetes and obesity, linked to imported food. For a visitor this means limited fresh produce.

Water. Desalinated and rainwater. Drink bottled; water is scarce in droughts.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid and tetanus.

Dengue. Outbreaks have occurred.

The sea. Beaches in the usual sense are few, and the coast is mostly sharp coral. Currents are strong and there are no lifeguards. Anibare Bay is the better place to swim.

Sun. Equatorial, with little shade on the island.

Emergency number is 110 or 111.

Nauru is a very calm place with low crime.

Police. Few in number; English is official alongside Nauruan.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken; cases are rare.

Society. The population is around twelve thousand and everyone knows everyone. There is no anonymity here, and that in itself works in favour of safety.

The refugee processing centre. The subject that shaped the country's international image. Discuss it with locals carefully and do not photograph it.

What actually matters. In Nauru the danger comes from remoteness and the absence of healthcare. The main difficulty of a trip is getting here and leaving on schedule.

Emergency number is 110.