Bamiyan

Bamiyan (Persian: بامیان) is the capital of the province of the same name in central Afghanistan, set in a high mountain valley among the ranges of the Hindu Kush at an altitude of about 2,500 metres. The town is known above all for the colossal niches that until 2001 held two giant Buddha statues carved into the cliff in the 6th century, as well as for its cave monasteries and the nearby turquoise lakes of Band-e-Amir.

Bamiyan at a glance

Bamiyan lies roughly 180 kilometres north-west of Kabul and serves as the centre of one of the calmest and most scenic provinces in the country. The valley stretches along the Bamiyan River, framed by sheer cliffs of compacted sandstone, with fields of potatoes and wheat spreading out around it. The population is mainly Hazara, Shia Muslims who form the cultural core of this part of central Afghanistan. Because of the altitude the climate is sharply continental: short warm summers and harsh, snowy winters.

Historical background

In antiquity Bamiyan sat on a branch of the Great Silk Road linking India, Central Asia and Iran. Caravans passed through the valley, and with the traders came ideas, religions and artistic traditions.

Buddhist culture

From the first centuries AD until the arrival of Islam, Bamiyan was a major centre of Buddhism. Monks carved hundreds of cave cells, prayer halls and shrines into the cliffs of the valley, covering the walls with murals that blended Indian, Sasanian and Hellenistic motifs. It was here that a distinctive artistic school took shape, and the town itself became an important place of pilgrimage.

The impact of vandalism

The valley had known destruction before: in the 13th century the armies of Genghis Khan laid waste to the fortresses here. The heaviest blow to its heritage, however, came in the 21st century, when religious extremism led to the destruction of unique ancient monuments.

The Buddhas of Bamiyan

The statues

The two standing Buddha figures cut into the cliff were the symbol of the valley. The larger statue stood about 55 metres tall, the smaller one about 38 metres; at the time they were created these were the largest images of a standing Buddha in the world. The figures were covered with painted plaster, and the caves surrounding the niches served as monastic quarters.

Destruction and restoration

In March 2001 both statues were blown up by the Taliban, who regarded them as idols. The loss caused an international outcry. Today conservation work is under way in the empty niches to stabilise and reinforce the rock face, and projects for partial reconstruction (anastylosis) from the surviving fragments are under discussion.

The monuments today

UNESCO involvement

In 2003 the "Cultural Landscape and Archaeological Remains of the Bamiyan Valley" were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List, and simultaneously placed on the list of sites in danger. International expeditions work on documentation, reinforcing the niches and protecting the surviving murals.

Preserving the heritage

Besides the niches, the protected area includes a network of caves holding the remains of some of the world's oldest oil painting, along with the ruins of fortresses. The specialists' task is to stabilise the fragile sandstone and prevent further collapse.

Getting to Bamiyan

Mountain roads lead from Kabul to Bamiyan; the drive takes several hours and crosses high passes. There are also occasional domestic flights to the valley's small airport. It is worth planning the route in advance, taking the season and the state of the roads into account.

Things to see and do

Band-e-Amir National Park

A few dozen kilometres from town lie the lakes of Band-e-Amir, Afghanistan's first national park. It is a cascade of vivid turquoise pools separated by natural travertine dams and surrounded by reddish cliffs.

The cultural landscape of the Bamiyan Valley

The valley itself, with its niches, caves and fields, is a single historical and natural ensemble, and it is what brings travellers here.

Shahr-e Zohak (the Red City)

The ruins of a medieval fortress of red sandstone rise above the valley; nearby stand the remains of Shahr-e Gholghola, the "city of screams", destroyed during the Mongol invasion.

Local food and traditions

The cuisine here is Hazara and broadly Afghan: pilaf, shurpa soup, flatbreads, lamb dishes and the famous Bamiyan potatoes. Hospitality and tea are an inseparable part of local culture.

Where to stay and practical tips

There are modest guesthouses in town. Dress conservatively, respect local customs and carry cash: there is essentially no banking infrastructure for foreign visitors. Afghanistan remains a high-risk destination and conditions change: check current travel advice, visa and permit requirements before you go, and plan your movements with local support.

Weather and the best time to visit

The best season runs from late spring to early autumn, when the passes are open and the lakes are at their most beautiful. Two days are usually enough to see the valley, the Buddha niches and Band-e-Amir.