Dar es Salaam

For most travellers Dar es Salaam is the place you change for the Zanzibar ferry, and that is a mistake: Tanzania's largest city has a rhythm of its own, the ocean at hand and a couple of strong sights worth a day or two before flying on. This is not a resort but a living African port metropolis — you come for real East Africa, not for postcards.

Is it worth stopping, and for how long

Honestly: Dar is not Paris, and there is no week-long list of essentials. One or two days is the optimum. In that time you can manage the museum, the carvers' market, a boat trip to the islands and an evening on the Msasani waterfront. Everything else is a bonus if your flight to Zanzibar or the parks is a day away.

What is actually worth seeing

• The National Museum — the main reason to stop. The skull of Australopithecus boisei (East Africa as the cradle of humanity) and halls on the German and British colonial periods. An hour and a half covers it, but the context it gives is powerful.
• Kivukoni fish market — come early in the morning, when the boats come in. A lively, noisy, slightly chaotic scene; haggling is appropriate, but watch your belongings in the crowd.
• Mwenge Carvers' Market — the largest market for Makonde ebony carving. This is where you buy something more serious than a fridge magnet: halve the first price quoted without hesitation.
• Azania Front Lutheran Church — the white German church of 1898 on the waterfront, the landmark of the historic centre.
• Mbudya — an uninhabited island half an hour away by boat, sand and snorkelling; the classic day-trip picnic.

With a spare day there is Bagamoyo (about 75 km, a UNESCO site and the former capital of German East Africa) and the ruins of the Swahili town of Kaole from the 13th to 16th centuries nearby. The drive is a couple of hours each way, so treat it as a separate excursion.

Boat trips and beaches

The Msasani Peninsula is the pleasantest part of the city: quieter, greener, and the departure point for dhows. A sailing dhow with lunch costs $60-90 per person and usually includes a landing on Mbudya and snorkelling; operators quote in US dollars. This is Dar's main attraction — say yes. The beaches within the built-up area are indifferent; for proper swimming, head to the islands or north towards Kunduchi.

Where to stay

• Msasani and Oyster Bay — the best choice: safer, with cafés, restaurants and the start of the boat trips. Dearer, but more comfortable.
• The centre (Kivukoni, Kisutu) — near the museum, the church and the Zanzibar ferry pier. Convenient for a short stopover, but the district empties in the evening.
• Near the airport — only if your flight is early.

Transport

Julius Nyerere Airport (DAR) takes Ethiopian, Qatar, Turkish, Emirates and KLM. Into the city a taxi is 40,000-53,000 TZS ($15-20), while Bolt and Uber are cheaper at 8,000-21,000 TZS ($3-8) across town; the apps work reliably and remove the haggling. Boda-bodas (motorcycle taxis) cost 2,600-8,000 TZS ($1-3) and are fast in traffic but risky: helmets are often absent and the traffic is dense. There are also DART bus rapid transit lines on dedicated lanes — cheap and thoroughly local, good for short hops along the main roads. Prices are as of 2026.

The Zanzibar ferry leaves from the pier in the centre; buy tickets in advance at the office or online, as touts with inflated prices work the entrance.

Food and money

The cooking is Swahili and filling: pilau (rice with cloves), ugali with stewed meat, mishkaki skewers, grilled fish and mandazi with tea. Lunch at a local hoteli is 13,000-21,000 TZS ($5-8), dinner at a restaurant on Msasani 40,000-80,000 TZS ($15-30). Street food is cheap and good, but pick stalls with turnover and hot cooking.

A litre of petrol is around 3,400 TZS ($1.30). Cash in Tanzanian shillings is needed for markets and boda-bodas; only the better hotels and restaurants take cards. Change money at banks or official bureaux, not in the street.

Safety and common mistakes

• The centre is fine by day, but pickpockets work the crowds at the markets and the pier — keep your phone and money on you.
• After dark do not walk unlit streets; take a Bolt.
• Do not display electronics or large notes.
• Malaria is present — prophylaxis and repellent are essential.
• The main mistake is allowing a week for Dar. The city is good in measured doses: a couple of full days, then Zanzibar, Bagamoyo or a safari.