Safety in Gabon

The general picture: Gabon is one of the calmer countries in the region, but Libreville and Port-Gentil still need attention. The main risk is pickpocketing in market and station crowds. Avoid walking alone after dark and keep expensive electronics out of view.

Mont-Bouet market: the highest concentration of petty thieves in the capital. Wear your bag on your front and keep your phone in a zipped pocket. Insistent self-appointed helpers work here too, and a firm, polite refusal in French usually ends it.

Pavements: where they exist, watch your step. Storm drains along the roads are often deep and uncovered, and falling into one causes serious injury. Street lighting is unreliable, so a phone torch earns its keep walking back to a hotel.

Checkpoints: road blocks are routine. Carry a copy of your passport and visa and leave the originals in the hotel safe. Officers are usually correct but may look for a reason to fine you, so greet them first, stay calm and don't argue.

Malaria: a year-round threat. Prophylaxis, repellent and nets are not optional here. City pharmacies stock what you need, but bring your own basics. The sun is fierce too, even under cloud.

In the parks: follow your guide exactly. Forest elephants and buffalo on a trail are genuinely dangerous, and they are not habituated to people. Never feed monkeys or stand at the water's edge where crocodiles live. Check your own government's travel advisory before you go.

Gabon is an oil country with low population density and large tracts of untouched forest. Tourists are few and deception as an industry does not exist.

Libreville. Pickpockets at the Mont-Bouët market and the port. Nobody walks at night.

Prices. Gabon is expensive: food is mostly imported and the oil economy keeps prices high. Not deception but reality.

Taxis. Shared taxis are the local norm with negotiated prices. A foreigner is better off taking the whole car.

National parks. Loango, Ivindo and Lopé are the country's chief asset, where elephants come out onto the beach. Trips are arranged through operators and cost serious money: infrastructure is thin and logistics complex. Check the operator.

Currency exchange. The CFA franc is pegged to the euro. Change at banks.

Photography. Military installations, police, the presidential palace, the airport, the port and oil infrastructure are categorically off limits. A frequent source of trouble.

Drones. Permission is required; they are confiscated at customs.

Wildlife. Exporting ivory and animal parts is a serious offence. Gabon pursues an active conservation policy, with thirteen percent of its territory under national parks.

National parks. Visits require permits and ranger escorts. The elephants at Loango are dangerous and must not be approached.

Drugs. The law is strict.

The political situation. The country has been through a change of power by military means. Public statements create risk.

Roads. Much of the country is forested, roads are few, and they wash out in the rainy season. Nobody drives at night.

Yellow fever is compulsory. A certificate is required on entry.

Malaria. Very high risk year-round. Prophylaxis is unconditionally essential.

Vaccinations. Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, rabies and polio.

Ebola. Gabon has experienced outbreaks in the past. There are none now.

Water. Bottled only.

The sea. The Atlantic coast has strong currents. At Loango, elephants and buffalo come onto the beach — not a metaphor, and distance must be kept.

Forest. Humid equatorial: leeches, insects and snakes. Go only with a guide.

Healthcare. Libreville has acceptable clinics thanks to the oil companies. Inland there is none. Anything serious means evacuation to France or South Africa. Insurance with evacuation cover is essential.

Emergency numbers: 1730 police, 1300 ambulance.

Gabon sits mid-table in Africa on corruption and roadside extortion occurs.

Checkpoints. On highways and at city entrances. Documents are checked and requests for "help" are possible.

Photography and the police. The main conflict for a foreigner.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates issued. The language is French.

Libreville at night. Travel by car.

Parks. Rangers provide security, and organisation at Loango and Ivindo is decent.

What actually matters. Gabon's main risks are malaria, wild animals and remoteness. Street crime is moderate, and the country's nature is among Africa's finest.

Emergency number is 1730.