Safety in Iceland

Weather: The real danger here is not crime but the weather. Always check the meteorological service before setting out. Storm winds can tear a car door off its hinges or knock an adult over in an exposed place.

The beaches: Reynisfjara's shoreline is notorious for sneaker waves. They can surge far beyond the normal waterline and pull someone into open sea. Never turn your back on the ocean, however good the photograph would be.

Road traps: Take great care on single-lane bridges and gravel sections. In winter the roads carry black ice, which is effectively invisible. Braking hard in those conditions puts you in the ditch.

The 112 app: Install the official app for contacting rescue services. It sends exact GPS coordinates if your car breaks down or you are injured on a trail, and in remote areas it is the only reliable way to call for help.

Hot springs: Water temperature in wild springs is unregulated and can reach ninety degrees. Test it before getting in. Tourists are seriously scalded every year by ignoring the warning signs.

Wildlife: Iceland has no dangerous predators, but nesting birds get aggressive. Do not pet Icelandic horses at farms without the owner's permission. Moss takes decades to recover, so walking on it is strictly forbidden.

Iceland is a country with almost no crime, where the police go months without drawing a weapon. Cheating tourists is not the custom, but one line of expenditure can ruin a trip.

Car hire insurance is the subject. The basic contract in Iceland does not cover three things that happen here constantly: gravel damage (Gravel Protection), sand and ash storm damage (Sand and Ash Protection), and water damage from river crossings. Doors are a separate problem: the wind rips an open door off its hinges, and that is not covered by the basic contract either. Bills run into thousands of euros. Take full cover — this is the case where the surcharge is justified.

Fuel. Self-service stations require a card with a PIN. Distances between them inland are long, so refuel at half a tank.

Excursions. Glacier walks, snowmobiles and whale trips are sold by a dozen operators at similar prices, with little deception.

Prices. Iceland is objectively expensive: dinner for two easily passes a hundred euros, and alcohol is sold only at Vínbúðin.

Driving off-road is a criminal offence. This is the country's most serious prohibition. Icelandic moss grows over decades and a tyre track remains for years. Off-road fines run to thousands of euros, cases reach court, and they make the news. You may drive only on roads, gravel ones included.

F-roads. Mountain roads marked F require four-wheel drive, open only in summer, and are signed as such. Taking a saloon car on one breaches your rental contract and voids the insurance automatically. River crossings are for the experienced and never alone.

Camping. Since 2015, tents and campervans may only stay at designated sites. Wild overnights by the roadside are prohibited and actively enforced.

Drones. Prohibited in national parks, at Gullfoss and Geysir, and over crowds. Registration is required.

Alcohol. Sold only at Vínbúðin, from age 20, with early closing.

Nature. Taking stones, lava or moss, bathing in hot springs outside marked places, and going to cliff edges beyond the ropes are prohibited or plainly dangerous.

Vaccinations. None.

Water. Cold tap water is among the best in the world; drink it anywhere. Hot water comes from geothermal sources and smells of sulphur — that is normal, but it is not for drinking.

Weather is the main danger. In Iceland the wind literally kills: gusts blow people off trails, overturn cars and tear off doors. Check the forecast at vedur.is, road conditions at road.is and warnings at safetravel.is. Planning a route in Iceland without those three sites is not possible. A red warning means do not go, not "we'll be careful".

Sneaker waves at Reynisfjara. The black beach near Vík is famous for waves that suddenly run twice as far as the rest and carry people into the ocean. Tourists have died there, more than once. Stay well back from the water and never turn your back on the ocean.

Hot springs. Natural springs can approach 100°C and the crust around geysers is thin. Do not leave the boardwalks in geothermal areas.

Healthcare. Good, but clinics are few and distances long. Emergency care on 112, with helicopter evacuation available. Insurance is needed.

Emergency number is 112, and the 112 Iceland app has a button to send your coordinates.

Iceland has topped the Global Peace Index for years and is among the least corrupt countries. Street crime is close to zero.

Police. Ordinary patrols are unarmed. Attitudes to foreigners are friendly and everyone speaks English.

112. The single number for police, ambulance and rescue. The 112 Iceland app sends your coordinates at one press and can also "check in" your route so a search starts in the right place.

ICE-SAR. Iceland's rescue service is volunteer-run and superb. It works free of charge but lives on donations. Before heading inland, leave your travel plan at safetravel.is: it is free and genuinely speeds up a search.

Reporting theft. Reports are taken and certificates for insurers issued. Cases are rare.

Traffic police. There are few cameras but the fines are high and the limits strict: 90 km/h on tarmac and 80 on gravel is not a suggestion — gravel really is slippery.

What actually matters. In Iceland the threat is not a person but the weather, the road and the ocean. Three websites — vedur.is, road.is, safetravel.is — matter more than any safety advice.